Hiking

Kīlauea

November 12, 2019 By Zola Zeester Leave a Comment

“During a volcanic eruption, we are reminded that our planet is an ever-changing environment whose basic processes are beyond human control. As much as we have altered the face of the Earth to suit our needs, we can only stand in awe before the power of an eruption.” — US National Park Service

Hawaiian Ridge - Emperor seamount chain consisting of islands, undersea mountains and volcanoes extends across the Pacific Ocean. — Hawaiian-Emperor seamount chain, NOAA and ESRI® Data & Maps (Public Domain)

The “Hawaiian – Emperor seamount chain” is a vast undersea mountain range interspersed with islands, underwater mountains (seamounts), atolls (ring shaped coral reefs encircling a lagoon), shallows, banks, reefs and more than 80 volcanoes, that extending across the Pacific Ocean for 3,728 miles (60,000 kilometers) from the Hawaiian islands to Alaska and Siberia. The chain has been forming during the last 70 to 80+ million years by volcano eruptions and movement of the ocean floor (the “Pacific Plate”) over a volcanic region known as the “Hawaii hotspot”. Closest to this hotspot is the Hawaiian archipelago (aka Windward islands) that includes eight main islands: Hawaii (aka ‘the Big Island’, the Island of Hawaii & Hawaii Island to distinguish it from the US state of Hawaii), Maui, Oahu, Kauai, Molokai, Lanai, Niihau, and Kahoolawe, as well as a number of small islands, atolls, and seamounts, that extend 1,500 miles (2,400 kilometers) from the Kure Atoll to the Big Island, the southernmost point of the Hawaiian – Emperor seamount chain.

The formation of the Big Island is the result of sequential and simultaneous eruptions of five ‘shield’ volcanoes (low profile, circular, slopping shield shaped volcanoes) over a period of about 300,000 – 600,000 years, and at 93 miles (150 km) across and a land area of 4,028 sq. miles (10,430 km²), it’s the largest of the Hawaiian islands and still growing because of the lava flow from currently active volcanoes, Mauna Loa and Kīlauea.

In accordance with beliefs and practices of the traditional Hawaiian religion, summits of the five Big Island volcanoes are revered by native Hawaiians as sacred mountains, and the powerful, passionate Fire Goddess, Pele, is believed to live within the Halema’uma’u crater located at the summit of Kīlauea. Pele’s domain, however, includes all volcanic activity on the Big Island, and she has the ability to cause lava to erupt from the ground at any time. She’s been a very busy goddess during the last four decades.

Kilauea volcano is still active on the Island of Hawaii, and NASA-led scientists are studying the effects and hazards. — Kilauea at Night, NASA photo

The Kīlauea Volcano

The name ‘Kīlauea’ is translated to ‘spewing’ or ‘much spreading’, referring to frequent lava flows originating from the volcano. The name is well-deserved as there have been 61 separate eruptions from Kīlauea since 1823, making it one of the most active volcanoes on planet Earth. Most of these eruptions have been relatively moderate and have occurred within one of its ‘rift zones’ with lava flows moving downslope. [A rift zone is an area of ruptures on the surface that allows lava to erupt and flow from the flank of a volcano instead of its summit.] However, fire goddess Pele does periodically create havoc with explosive and sometimes deadly eruptions that expel molten rock and gases across the landscape of the Big Island.

Kīlauea’s most recent major eruption (dating back to January 3. 1983) is the longest period of volcanic activity in its documented history with lava flowing almost continuously for 35 years from the volcanic cone, Puʻu ʻŌʻō (‘high point on the skyline’) located within Kīlauea’s East Rift Zone. [Volcanic cones like Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō are formed by the ejected magma rocks piling up around a vent.] The catastrophic collapse of Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō on April 30, 2018, resulted in the iconic eruption site and surrounding lava flow fields becoming without lava during the rest of 2018. The absence of surface activity for such a long period of time makes it unlikely that lava activity will resume within Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō; therefore, scientists have determined the eruption has concluded. It’s important, however, to remember that Kīlauea remains an active volcano, and hazards have not changed as a new eruption can quickly cause dangerous conditions. For Kīlauea status updates, check out the Report from USGS – Hawaiian Volcano Observatory (daily updates and warnings).

Video: Story of Kīlauea Volcano’s summit lava lake, and the eruptive history of Halema‘uma‘u. Credit: US Geological Survey

In the video documentary 100 Days: 2018 Kilauea Eruption, photojournalist Andrew Richard Hara chronicles his emotional observations of the 2018 Kīlauea eruption.

Also, see lava flow from Kīlauea up-close in HD. Two short videos, Dawn of Fire and River of Fire, (filmed and produced by Tyler Hulett) capture flowing molten lava as it moves toward the Pacific Ocean from Puʻu ʻŌʻō during daylight and night. It’s an incredible sight to see.

Visiting Kīlauea

“A spectacle, sublime and even appalling, presented itself before us. We stopped and trembled. Astonishment and awe for some moments rendered us mute, and, like statues, we stood fixed to the spot, with our eyes riveted on the abyss below.” — William Ellis (1794 – 1872), describing his first sight of Kīlauea

The first western visitors to Kīlauea were two missionaries in 1823, William Ellis, an Englishman, and American, Asa Thurston, and after the building of hotels on its rim in the 1840’s, Kīlauea became a tourist attraction. Today, it’s protected within the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park and visited by 2.6 million people annually. The park offers visitors dramatic volcanic landscapes of Kīlauea and Mauna Loa, archeological sites, historical places, and a look at rare flora, fauna and wildlife as well as hiking, biking, touring and camping. Popular stops are the Kilauea Visitor Center and the Thomas A. Jaggar Museum & observation deck.

References/Information Sources:
Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park Find Kīlauea vistor information, including eruption/emission/lava flow updates, hiking & safety tips, photos & video
USGS – Hawaiian Volcano Observatory, Kīlauea history, status reports, updates & information
Wikipedia: Hawaiian Islands, Hawaii (Island), Kīlauea, List of volcanoes in the Hawaiian – Emperor seamount chain, Hawaiian religion, Pele

Scientific Study: In January 2017, a NASA-led science team began exploring Kīlauea and Mauna Loa from the air, ground and space to better understand volcanic processes and find ways to mitigate the hazards.

US National Parks: There are more than 400 US national parks available to everyone, every day. Most are free to enjoy, and the 117 that charge an entry fee (e.g., Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park) offer fee-free days throughout the year.
Find Your Park ← Use the search tools on this website to find the perfect place to visit.

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Feature photo credit: Puʻu ʻŌʻō, courtesy of GE Ulrich, USGS (Public Domain). [Note: Puʻu ʻŌʻō is a volcanic cone that allows lava flow eruptions from the eastern flank of the Kīlauea summit. It has been erupting since January 3, 1983.]
Image: Map of Hawaiian Islands, United States Geological Survey, Public Domain
Image: Simplified map of Kīlauea Volcano (2000) by J. Johnson, USGS, Public Domain
Photo: Kīlauea at Night is courtesy of NASA

Mer de Glace

September 24, 2019 By Zola Zeester 1 Comment

Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) is categorized a “valley glacier”, a type of glacier that originates from mountain glaciers and flows down valleys, and located above the Chamonix valley within the Mont Blanc massif mountain range of the French Alps. Formed by the confluence of the Leschaux and Génant glaciers, the Mer de Glace is the longest and largest glacier in France, and one the biggest tourist attractions in the Chamonix valley as it’s accessible by the historic Montenvers Railway (Chemin de fer du Montenvers) and offers spectacular mountain views as well as tours, exhibits, and restaurant/hotel. However, the powerful beauty and recreational benefits of Mer de Glace were not always appreciated.

During the classical and medieval periods of European history, ice was deemed mysterious, evil and dangerous, and glaciers aroused intense fear as they were thought to be inhabited by demons that swallowed up unwary victims as well as whole villages. Consequently, glaciers were avoided, not explored, deepening myths and superstitions for many centuries. In 1690, fearful villagers of Chamonix took action against glacial evil by retaining the services of a bishop to exorcise the glaciers.

Two Englishmen on expedition to Chamonix in 1741, William Windham (1717-1761) an English landowner and Richard Pococke (1704-1765) a high ranking clergyman and anthropologist, disregarded the forewarning of evil lurking in glaciers, and climbed up the mountain for 3¾ hours with the aid of local guides and porters to carry wine (essential drink for 18th century adventure travelers) and provisions. It was a successful excursion as they returned safely and were able to provide the first written description of the glacier they called ‘Mer de Glace’. The achievement also marks the beginning of change in attitude as the phenomena of the Sea of Ice later attracted writers, adventurers, artists and photographers.

Crossing the Mer de Glace on foot (1902-1904) — Mer de Glace Crossing, Zurich Central Library collection, 1902 – 1904, Public Domain

Two hundred and seventy-five years later, the explorers of Mer de Glace are on skis. In the video Ice Call from PVS Company, pro skier, Sam Favret, takes you on a freestyle tour through the icy waves, trails, and tunnels of Mer de Glace.

Vallée Blanche

Mer de Glace is certainly skiable, and you don’t have to be a ski pro like Sam Favret or an expert to enjoy the unique backcountry experience via the iconic off-piste ski route, Vallée Blanche. But, there are risks. The surface of Mer de Glace is very rough with gradient drops, large hunks of ice, deep crevasses, and seracs, making it extremely dangerous without sufficient snowfall, good intermediate skills (in all types of terrains & snow conditions) and a local mountain guide.

The Vallée Blanche is accessible from Chamonix, France via a 20 minute ride on the Aiguille du Midi cable car to the mid-station Plan de l’Aiguille (2,317m), then a walk through a tunnel and down a precarious ridge to a small, level area— the starting point for the main Vallée Blanche runs. There are four: the classic “voie normale” (the normal way), and the more challenging, Le Vrai Vallee Blanche, the Petit Envers du Plan and Grand Envers du Plan.

For the most part, the voie normale follows the valley floor through dynamic terrain, beginning with a descent into a bowl toward a large rock outcrop known as Le Gros Rognon (The Big Rock) and continuing along the mountainside. The run can be nice and smooth in spots, but depending on weather conditions, there could be deep powder, crusty layers, and icy moguls to navigate. About 2/3 down, the Refuge du Requin is a popular place to take a break, and 250 meters from there is the start of Mer de Glace. If snow conditions are good, it’s possible to ski all the way down to Chamonix. If not, the run ends at Montenvers, thus requiring a steep climb up iron stairs (misery!) to a gondola that connects to the Montenvers Railway. At a leisurely pace, including lots of stops, sightseeing and long lift queues, the up/down round trip will take 4 – 6 hours, but don’t rush…..enjoy the ride and take in the views.

The Fateful Retreat of Mer de Glace

Valley glaciers like Mer de Glace are relentlessly moving, flowing, growing, shrinking and deforming as a result of weather (temperature and snowfall) and stresses caused by the massive weight. As a result, they are appreciable indicators of climate change.

After a significant cold period in Europe during the late 19^th century, Mer de Glace was so large that it reached as far as Chamonix in 1850. Today, it’s hardly visible from Chamonix as the lower end of the glacier (the ‘snout’) has been shrinking during the last 30 years at a rate of about 4-5 meters (13-16 feet) a year. There is concern the retreat will not stop as Mer de Glace is an important fresh water source for the region as well as a tourist destination, and Christian Vincent, a French glaciologist with the Laboratoire de Glaciologie et Geophysique (LGGE) and Institut de Recherche pour le Development (IRD), has warned it may shrink as much as 1.2 -1.4 kilometers (about ¾ of a mile) by the year 2040.

Resources/Information:
Wikipedia (Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc massif, Glacier, Richard Pococke, William Windham, Sr., French Alps, Chamonix, Chemin de fer du Montenvers, Aiguille du Midi, Little Ice Age)
The Annals of Mont Blanc – A Monograph by Charles Edward Mathews (1900)
Because It’s There – A Celebration of Mountaineering from 200 BC to Today (William Windham..from an Account of the Glaciers or Ice Alps in Savoy, in Two Letters) edited and translated by Alan S. Weber (2003)
Celebration of the Franco-English Friendship in Chamonix (1936), summitpost.org
Spiritual History of Ice: Romanticism, Science & Imagination by Eric G. Wilson
Chamonix visitor information: findtransfers.com (see also; chamonix.com, chamonix.net, ski-chamonix.net)
“Climate Change on Mont Blanc: The Vanishing Mer de Glace” by Helena Fouquet (2015), bloomberg.com
Mont Blanc: Glacier in Danger of Collapse, BBC News (September 25, 2019) – Italian authorities have closed roads and evacuated mountain huts after experts warned that part of a glacier on Mont Blanc could collapse.

There are more bold backcountry runs, big jumps and tricks to see on the “Downhill Runs” video channel and explore at Skiing China

Filmakers traveled to Alaska to explore Exit Glacier, but along with stunningly beautiful mountain views and amazing blue ice, they saw melting. FREE 2 WATCH → Glacier Exit

Feature photo is a still shot from the video “Ice Call” by PVS Company
Mer de Glace photo by Detroit Publishing Co. (1890-1900), US Library of Congress Prints & Photographs, Public Domain
Chamonix Valley Map sourced from chamonix.net
Crossing the Mer de Glace on foot, photo taken about 1902-1904, Zurich Central Library, Public Domain

Bears Ears

August 24, 2019 By Zola Zeester 1 Comment

“Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it. —- Theodore Roosevelt

Beauty of Bears Ears – Celebrating the New Monument by Corey Robinson

In order to protect more than 1.35 million acres of land containing historic, cultural and natural resources in the high desert country of southeastern Utah, President Barack Obama designated Bears Ears a national monument in December 2016 under the Antiquities Act of 1906. Bears Ears has long been considered sacred by Native American tribes, a place for spirituality, healing and reflection, and they have worked since the 1930’s to protect and preserve it as the presence of Native American culture within the area can be traced back many thousands of years.

There are an estimated 1,000 archeological sites located in the Bears Ears landscape of red rock, juniper forests and high plateau, the majority not yet studied by western archeologists, including the visually stunning, 3,500 year old Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings, great houses and villages, ancient roads, shrines, and rock art. Designation as a US national monument offers protection against excavation or destruction for these invaluable antiquities so that they may be preserved for the benefit of future generations. However, Bears Ears is again at risk as it has gotten caught up in politics.

In December 2017, President Donald Trump issued a proclamation that purports to overturn the creation of Bears Ears National Monument. Protests, lawsuits and congressional bills followed. Documents obtained from the US Department of Interior indicate that the purpose of revoking the Bears Ears National Monument designation was to open up the lands to oil and gas and uranium development. On July 26, 2019, the Trump administration released a management plan for Bears Ears that includes “chaining” potentially thousands of acres of Bears Ears. ‘Chaining’ is destructive for landscapes and archeological sites, and often done to prepare land for commercial cattle grazing by dragging a large naval anchor chain between tractors, or using an industrial chipper.

While 16 US presidents have designated 157 national monuments under the authority of the Antiquities Act (Devils Tower National Monument was the first in 1906) and federal courts have repeatedly upheld presidential national monument designations, it often arouses controversy over issues of industry/business development v. protection and preservation of federal lands and its natural resources. Just one example — the Grand Canyon. Today, it’s considered an American treasure, but not everyone was on board in the beginning.

A senate bill was first introduced in 1887 to establish the Grand Canyon a national park, but it died in committee and mining and logging were allowed to continue in the area. In 1908, President Teddy Roosevelt, an avid outdoorsman and conservationist, used his authority under Antiquities Act to proclaim more than 800,000 acres of the Grand Canyon a national monument. A bitter fight began and continued for more than a decade as opponents filed lawsuits claiming President Roosevelt had overstepped his authority and attempted to block all efforts to reclassify the Grand Canyon National Monument a national park. Fortunately, preservation advocates eventually prevailed. Grand Canyon National Park was established by an Act of Congress signed into law by President Woodrow Wilson on February 26, 1919, and currently receives approximately 5 million visitors each year.

Defenders of the Grand Canyon did not give up, and more than a century later, the fight for Bears Ears National Monument is just as intense.

Information/Resources:

Bears Ears has been home to Hopi, Navajo, Ute, Ute Mountain Ute, and Zuni people for many centuries, and they have worked for decades to protect its countless archeological, cultural and natural resources. For more information about this remarkable cultural landscape and efforts to protect it, go to the Bears Ears Inter-Tribal Coalition website → HERE

TAKE ACTION – In July, 2019, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) released its final management plan for Bears Ears National Monument and it jeopardizes everything the monument was originally created to protect, including extraordinary, sacred landscapes and troves of priceless cultural resources. You can send a message of protest to BLM Acting Director William Perry Pendley via this National Parks Conservation Association link → Protest the BLM’s Bears Ears Plan

Bears Ears National Monument, US Bureau of Land Management, Department of Interior
Visitor Information – Utah Office of Tourism, Bears Ears National Monument The best times to go are March – June and September – October.

This is Bears Ears – Culture, Sport, Take Action, a multimedia experience from Patagonia

Indian Creek and Cliffside, Bears Ears National Monument, located in southeastern Utah, was designated a National Monument in December, 2016/US Bureau of Land Management — Indian Creek and Cliffside, Bears Ears National Monument, USBLM, PD

You’ll be amazed and inspired viewing On2In2™ special selection videos featuring the natural wonders of the world. FREE To WATCH, On-Demand Watch: Natural Beauty

Feature photo: House on Fire Ruin, Upper Mule Canyon near Comb Ridge, by John Fowler CC BY 2.0

Photo of Indian Creek and Cliffside, Bears Ears National Monument, courtesy of the US Bureau of Land Management, Public Domain

Malibu Road

June 2, 2019 By Zola Zeester 2 Comments

Sometimes— bliss is found by chance at an unlikely place and time. A friend recommended Malibu as one of the “best places” to live in the Los Angeles area. I was more than skeptical, and thought she must have had a total misunderstanding of my financial resources, life-style and career goals. But, I was also intrigued and willing to check it out as the friend assured “it’s a beautiful community”, and I was very much in need of a refuge. As it turned out, the Bu was not just a beautiful place; it was a beautiful experience.

[su_quote cite=”Rachel Carson (1907-1964) “]To stand at the edge of the sea, to sense the ebb and flow of the tides, to feel the breath of a mist moving over a great salt marsh, to watch the flight of shore birds that have swept up and down the surf lines of the continents for untold thousands of years, to see the running of the old eels and the young shad to the sea, is to have knowledge of things that are as nearly eternal as any earthly life can be.[/su_quote]

California Brown Pelicans in flight at Big Rock Beach, Malibu

Purple Shore Crab at Big Rock Beach, Malibu

To Jacy, the friend who turned me on2 Malibu……..

“I wanna thank you with all of my heart
It’s a brand new start
A dream come true
in Malibu” — Miley Cyrus

Zola’s Malibu Road Reading List*

The Story of Malibu (free to read online) historical account of this unique place, published by the Malibu Lagoon Museum

• The King and Queen of Malibu: The True Story of the Battle for Paradise by David K. Randall. In 1892, Frederick H. Rindge (1857-1905) bought the 13,300 acre Spanish land grant “Rancho Topanga Malibu Sequit” (Malibu Rancho) for $10/acre, and just a few years later, an intense fight for Malibu and its beautiful, secluded beaches began.

• All For a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora by David Rensin

• Malibu (Images of America) by Ben Marcus and Marc Wanamaker

• Crazy for the Storm: A Memoir of Survival by Norman Ollestad

Read up on the amazing ‘California Brown Pelican‘

Malibu Travel Information/Resources:

Malibu Lagoon State Beach – water sports, hiking, bird and whale watching, and guided tours of wetlands and historical/cultural landmarks
Birdwatching field trips at Malibu Lagoon hosted by Santa Monica Bay Audubon Society (free, monthly)
Malibu Creek State Park – hike, ride, climb & explore stunning terrain and wildlife of California’s Santa Monica Mountains
Point Dume State Beach – swimming, surfing, scuba diving and fishing. Watch California gray whales during December to mid April migration period
Robert H. Meyer Memorial State Beach – an area of small beaches known as “pocket beaches”, including: El Pescador, La Piedra and El Matador
Adamson House and Malibu Lagoon Museum – tour 1929 Spanish Colonial Revival home and garden; and museum collection of artifacts, photos and documents depicting history of Malibu
The Getty Villa – art, architecture and gardens within a re-creation of an ancient Roman country house
Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area, Top Ten Reasons to Visit

Looking for your own special refuge? Watch: Destinations,
an On2In2™ collection of short videos from around the world,
for dreaming and exploring

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Malibu photo collection courtesy of Zeester Media LLC, CC BY-NC-ND 4.0
Feature photo courtesy of Unsplash CC0

*If you purchase a book via a link within this page, Zeester Media LLC may receive a small commission. This in no way affects the price you pay for the purchase.

Voyageurs

May 27, 2019 By Zola Zeester 2 Comments

This “More Than Just Parks” video, Voyageurs 8K, is a Pattiz Brothers Film, produced by Sea Raven Media. It was filmed during a few weeks time spent at Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota USA. The views are breathtaking, and will take you to a wonderful place. Watch in full screen and use earphones for the ultimate experience.

[su_dropcap]A[/su_dropcap]fter eight decades of public and legislative contention, 218,054 acres of the lake country of northern Minnesota were established a US national park in 1975, “Voyageurs National Park”. The name of the park is in recognition of the legendary French-Canadian “voyageurs” canoe men hired by trading companies to transport trade goods and furs in the area during the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s a beautiful park with landscape, geology, wildlife and history creating an exceptional outdoor setting for an awe-inspiring visitor experience and year-round recreation.

There are 30 park lakes (40% of the area), providing open water for boating, canoeing and kayaking from mid-spring through mid-fall, and fishing throughout the year (ice fishing in winter). The eco-rich landscape and diversity of wildlife offer opportunities for hiking, birding (over 240 species, including bald eagles and osprey), and nature walks while the northern latitude location and dark skies make for excellent stargazing and a chance to see the Milky Way and northern lights. During winter months, the park becomes a frozen wonderland—perfect for snowshoe and cross-country skiing as well as snowmobiling over 110 miles of maintained trails.

Voyageurs National Park Information/Resources:
“The Heart of the Continent“, Voyageurs – National Park Minnesota
Voyageurs National Park Association

More Fun in the Parks: There are more than 400 US national parks available to everyone, every day. Most are free to enjoy, and the 117 that charge an entry fee offer fee-free days throughout the year. Use the search tools here → Find Your Park to find the perfect place to visit.

FREE To WATCH the Natural Beauty channel, an On2In2™ collection of short videos, including other More Than Just Parks films. It’s a great way to escape for a few minutes, and start planning your next outdoor excursion.

Located on the Island of Hawaii (the Big Island) in the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Kīlauea is one of the most active volcanoes on planet Earth, and the fire goddess really puts on a big show. You’ve got to see it.

See the historic natural beauty of Bears Ears National Monument
in the high desert country of southeastern Utah.

The feature photo is a screen shot taken from the “Voyageurs” video

Snake Mountain

September 19, 2018 By Zola Zeester Leave a Comment

During an end-of-summer visit to Vermont, my friend, Catherine, suggested a “sunset” hike up Snake Mountain. We didn’t see the sunset, and got a little lost on the way down (despite the fact it’s an easy loop-trail with signage), but we had a mountain of laughs on this little adventure and learned a lot, too.

Snake Mountain belongs to a series of scattered hills that extend from the greater Taconic mountain range, and it rises dramatically from the surrounding flat landscape. — Western view of Snake Mountain, Michael Kostiuk CC BY-SA 3.0

Geography Snake Mountain is part of a series of scattered hills extending from the greater Taconic mountain range, and is oddly separated from other mountains within the range so that it appears prominently up 1,287 feet from the surrounding flat landscape of Champlain Valley.

1,215 acres span the upper slopes and summit of Snake Mountain. Not far from the summit is Red Rock Pond, a small, shallow pond surrounded by hardwoods and a rocky ridge. Near a summit known as Cranberry Bog is a 10-acre wetland about 33 feet deep and more than 9,500 years old.

History

At one time, locals referred to it as “Rattlesnake Mountain”, likely because of the venomous Timber Rattlesnakes believed to be living within the rocks and ledges. Local legend also includes the story of a menacing “Black Beast of Snake Mountain” haunting the mountain slopes.

During a period of time when mountain top resorts offering guests fresh air and breathtaking views were popular in the Northeast, Addison County resident and Vermont State Representative, Jonas N. Smith (1805 – 1884), built the Grand View Hotel on the summit of Snake Mountain in 1870, and it then became known as Grand View Mountain. The hotel was destroyed by fire and abandoned in 1925, but reminders of its history are still visible on Snake Mountain, including the hotel’s concrete slab foundation at the summit and the carriage road that once shuttled vacationers up to the hotel (still used today by hikers as the main trail to the summit).

In 1959, the Vermont Fish & Wildlife Department began acquiring land in order to establish the Snake Mountain Wildlife Management Area for the purpose of conserving wildlife habitat and providing public access.

Habitat and Wildlife Snake Mountain is home to many creatures, plants and a few snakes.

Bloodroot is one of many wildflowers found on Snake Mountain, Vermont — Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) UpstateNYer, CC BY-SA 3.0

Herbs and Wildflowers Among the forests and wetland grow white trillium, dog’s-tooth violet, bloodroot, sweet cicely, beech-drops, large-flowered bellwort, bishop’s-cap, hepatica, Canada-violet, dwarf ginseng, small-flowered buttercup, Christmas fern and rattlesnake fern. Look for back’s sedge, four-leaved milkweed, handsome sedge, needle-spine rose, hair honeysuckle, large yellow lady’s-slipper, podgrass and squaw root. The Vermont state-endangered Douglas’s knotweed has also been found.

Mammals White-tailed deer winter in the area. Coyote, bobcat, red and gray fox, raccoon, cottontail rabbit, gray squirrel, and the occasional moose and bear also inhabit Snake Mountain.

Look for Great Grey Owls and other birds of prey and woodland song birds on Snake Mountain day hikes — Great Grey Owl, jok2000 CC BY-SA 3.

Birds Snake Mountain provides opportunities to see a variety of “birds of prey”, including eagles, falcons, hawks, vultures, ospreys, and the less common harriers during migration (mid-September to early November), and peregrine falcons have nested on its cliffs. Woodland songbirds, woodpeckers and owls can also be spotted as well as wild turkey and ruffed grouse. [Birds of America]

Reptiles and Amphibians You can find a variety of salamanders (red-backed, Jefferson, four-toed, blue-spotted and spotted), American toads, spring peepers, gray tree and wood frogs on Snake Mountain. Milk, brown and garter snakes may also be seen.

Recreation Snake Mountain is open to regulated hunting, trapping, hiking and wildlife viewing. A network of walking trails crisscross the mountain and provides access to the summit, Red Rock Pond, and Cranberry Bog. The accessibility, easy climb, and expansive views of Champlain Valley and the Adirondack Mountains from the summit make it one of the best beginner hiking trails in Vermont and a local favorite.

Hike New England's Snake Mountain trail map guide — Snake Mountain trail map, provided by HikeNewEngland.com

Hiking Trails & Tips

♦ “It’s muddy and buggy”. That was the advice we were given by a local, and it was spot on. Don’t forget the bug spray, along with water, binoculars and camera.

♦ The hike to the summit and back is approximately 5 miles and can be accomplished in about 2 hours. During our hike, a runner using a pair of trekking poles passed us going up & down the mountain. The guy was flying, and I decided I needed some of those poles! * SHOP Trekking Poles and Hiking Staffs That’s a great workout; however, the fun of Snake Mountain is the experience of getting away, exploring, enjoying nature and the views. Take your time, stop, rest & look around, and listen to the quiet of the forest.

♦ The main trail starts at Wilmarth Road up the old carriage road. It’s a wide path with a steady 30% incline and bypass paths along the way to help hikers avoid muddy spots. The trail gets rockier, narrow and winding as it gets higher with a jag left about 1/3 of the way up. (The road to the right is Mountain Road Extension, and you don’t want to go there during either the ascent or descent because you’ll wind up back tracking.) Just short of the half-way point, the trail connects on the left to a more narrow and steeper alternate summit trail that takes hikers past Red Rock Pond. Either trail takes you up, but probably best (especially for first-timers) to continue to the right on the old carriage road, and descend down by way of the Red Rock Pond trail or back over again the easier old carriage road trail.

It helps to pay attention to the signs while descending Snake Mountain, Vermont — Catherine points to the sign we somehow missed © 2017-19 Zeester Media LLC

♦ Some of the trail paths cross over private lands. Be respectful and watch for signs (seems simple enough, but so easy to take a wrong turn). The “Wilmarth Road →→” sign is there to guide hikers away from a wrong turn on Mountain Road Extension during descent, but my friend and I were distracted and missed it, and (you guessed it) had to double back once we finally realized the trail was not looking quite right.

♦ Dogs are allowed, but must be leashed.

♦ Plants may not be picked on public land.

How to get to Snake Mountain

Snake Mountain is located in west-central Vermont between Addison and Weybridge. From Burlington, drive South on Route 7 to Route 17 West toward New York. From Middlebury, drive from the college north on Weybridge Road (23); turn left/west onto Route 17.

At the Route 22A intersection (there’s a general store and white town hall building), turn south on Route 22A. Drive 2.5 miles and look for Wilmarth Road street sign (a gravel lane that cuts through fields). Wilmarth Road intersects with Mountain Road, and you’ll see the start of Snake Mountain trails at the intersection. Turn left onto Mountain Road. Park a short distance down the road in the small, unmarked gravel parking lot on the left.

Information/Resources:

Snake Mountain Wildlife Management Area
Mysterious Snake Mountain by Chad Abramovich, Obscure Vermont (October 28, 2013)
Snake Mountain From the Secret Side by Christian Woodard, Addison County Independent (December 7, 2011)
The Fall Migration of Raptors by Emily Brodsky, University of Vermont EcoBlog (October 2, 2011)
Snakes of Vermont, Vermont Fish and Wildlife Department
iNaturalist Vermont Mission: Spring Ephemeral Wildflowers by Kent McFarland, Vermont Center for Ecostudies (April 26, 2014)

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Feature photo of view from summit of Snake Mountain is courtesy of Flickr user, Jeanne Mayell, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

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Retreat of Exit Glacier

June 4, 2018 By Zola Zeester Leave a Comment

Located in Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska, Exit Glacier is one of 38 interconnected valley glaciers in the Harding Icefield, the largest ice field contained completely within the United States. In the spring of 1968, the first documented mountaineering party succeeded in crossing the Harding Icefield, and Exit Glacier was given its name for serving as the exit off the ice field during the expedition.

Exit Glacier is one of Harding Icefield’s smaller glaciers, but is one of the most visited because of year-round, easy access by a roadway and hiking trails around and above the glacier. When snow arrives in the area (usually mid-November) until early May each year, the access road is closed to cars but open to a wide range of winter sports and recreation, including snowmobiles, dogsleds, fat-tire bicycles, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

According to park research studies and recent enhanced monitoring and mapping, Exit Glacier has retreated about a mile in the past 100 years, and shrinking has escalated during the last few years with 187 feet (57 meters) lost from 2013-14 and another 136 feet (41.5 meters) in 2015.

Filmakers, Raphael Rogers, Kristin Gerhart and Paul Rennick, traveled to Alaska to explore Exit Glacier, but along with stunningly beautiful mountain views and amazing blue ice, they saw melting. Local guide, Rick Brown, explained what they were seeing and what’s been happening at Exit Glacier in this short video documentary, Glacier Exit.

Understanding Valley Glaciers

In order to understand why glaciers are considered a visual indicator of climate change, it helps to understand some basics about glacier formation, movement and their sensitivity to fluctuations in temperature.

Exit Glacier is what is known as a valley glacier (aka alpine glacier) that forms when more snow falls on mountain peaks during a year than melts during the summer, creating a snow pack that builds up and thickens. Over time, the weight of the snow causes the snow pack to compress and turn into ice, and the glacier grows as more and more snow and ice accumulate. Then, the weight of the ice starts to slowly push down the mountain through the valley. This downward movement of the glacier is hardly noticeable to the observer, but it’s a powerful force of nature that erodes the ground beneath it, stripping the valley floor and knocking loose rocks and debris. Along the way down, the glacier becomes a mixture of rock, dirt and ice.

While snow falls in the cold, higher elevation temperatures at the top of the glacier (the ‘accumulation zone’) during valley glacier formation, the ice is continually melting in the warmer area at the bottom of the glacier (the ‘ablation zone’). If the accumulation at the top pushes ice down the valley faster than the ice melts at the bottom, the glacier advances. When ice at the bottom melts faster than ice accumulates and moves down from the top, the glacier recedes.

During a glacier recession, ice and rock continue to flow downhill to the toe of the glacier (the end of the glacier at any given point in time, aka ‘terminus’ or ‘snout’), and the rocks are then continuously deposited on the ground at the front edge of the glacier as the ice melts. During periods of ‘stagnation’, the ice at the front of the glacier melts at essentially the same rate as the ice flows down, resulting in the toe of the glacier staying in one place. Rock and debris, however, continue to be pushed downward to the front edge of the glacier where it is deposited as the ice melts away.

Information/Resources:

Exit Glacier – visitor information. How to get up close to the glacier and explore the area.

The Retreat of Exit Glacier by Susan Huse

Kenai Fjords National Park (Where Mountains, Ice and Ocean Meet) – learn more, plan your visit, get involved

Physical Science in Kenai Fjords, by Virginia Valentine, Keith Echelmeyer, Susan Campbell, Sandra Zirnheld (Alaska Park Science: Volume 3 / Issue 1, 2004)

⇒ Exit Glacier conditions (May 28, 2018 update), an ice fall hazard zone was identified by Kenai Fjords park officials at the toe and sides of Exit Glacier. The condition is dangerous due to tall blocks and slabs of ice, and entry into the ice fall hazard zone is prohibited; however, the road to Exit Glacier and hiking trails remain open.

Located above the Chamonix valley within the Mont Blanc massif mountain range of the French Alps, the valley glacier, Mer de Glace (‘Sea of Ice’), is the largest and longest glacier in France and a popular tourist attraction as it offers spectacular mountain views as well as tours, exhibits, off-piste ski runs, and restaurant/hotel. Unfortunately, it has also been retreating during the last 30 years.

Artist Zaria Forman captures the massive, but fragile beauty of amazing ice and snow formations in her work, and reminds us how important glaciers are to every living being on Earth, now and in the future.

Feature image “Toe of Exit Glacier” is courtesy of the US National Park Service/Paige Calamari, PD. The 2011 photo of the toe of Exit Glacier was taken from the Outwash Plain below. Since that time, warmer temperatures have reduced the glacier mass of Exit Glacier, and it will likely never look like this photo again.

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