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Mer de Glace

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A view of the Mer de Glace, Chamonix Valley, France at end of the 19th century
Late 19th century view of Mer de Glace, US Library of Congress, PD

Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) is categorized a “valley glacier”, a type of glacier that originates from mountain glaciers and flows down valleys, and located above the Chamonix valley within the Mont Blanc massif mountain range of the French Alps.  Formed by the confluence of the Leschaux and Génant glaciers, the Mer de Glace is the longest and largest glacier in France, and one the biggest tourist attractions in the Chamonix valley as it’s accessible by the historic Montenvers Railway (Chemin de fer du Montenvers) and offers spectacular mountain views as well as tours, exhibits, and restaurant/hotel. However, the powerful beauty and recreational benefits of Mer de Glace were not always appreciated.

During the classical and medieval periods of European history, ice was deemed mysterious, evil and dangerous, and glaciers aroused intense fear as they were thought to be inhabited by demons that swallowed up unwary victims as well as whole villages.  Consequently, glaciers were avoided, not explored, deepening myths and superstitions for many centuries.  In 1690, fearful villagers of Chamonix took action against glacial evil by retaining the services of a bishop to exorcise the glaciers.

Two Englishmen on expedition to Chamonix in 1741, William Windham (1717-1761) an English landowner and Richard Pococke (1704-1765) a high ranking clergyman and anthropologist, disregarded the forewarning of evil lurking in glaciers, and climbed up the mountain for 3¾ hours with the aid of local guides and porters to carry wine (essential drink for 18th century adventure travelers) and provisions.  It was a successful excursion as they returned safely and were able to provide the first written description of the glacier they called ‘Mer de Glace’.  The achievement also marks the beginning of change in attitude as the phenomena of the Sea of Ice later attracted writers, adventurers, artists and photographers.

 

Crossing the Mer de Glace on foot (1902-1904)
Mer de Glace Crossing, Zurich Central Library collection, 1902 – 1904, Public Domain

 

Two hundred and seventy-five years later, the explorers of Mer de Glace are on skis.  In the video Ice Call from PVS Company, pro skier, Sam Favret, takes you on a freestyle tour through the icy waves, trails, and tunnels of Mer de Glace.

 

Vallée Blanche

Mer de Glace is certainly skiable, and you don’t have to be a ski pro like Sam Favret or an expert to enjoy the unique backcountry experience via the iconic off-piste ski route, Vallée Blanche.  But, there are risks.  The surface of Mer de Glace is very rough with gradient drops, large hunks of ice, deep crevasses, and seracs, making it extremely dangerous without sufficient snowfall, good intermediate skills (in all types of terrains & snow conditions) and a local mountain guide.

The Vallée Blanche is accessible from Chamonix, France via a 20 minute ride on the Aiguille du Midi cable car to the mid-station Plan de l’Aiguille (2,317m), then a walk through a tunnel and down a precarious ridge to a small, level area— the starting point for the main Vallée Blanche runs.  There are four: the classic “voie normale” (the normal way), and the more challenging, Le Vrai Vallee Blanche, the Petit Envers du Plan and Grand Envers du Plan.

For the most part, the voie normale follows the valley floor through dynamic terrain, beginning with a descent into a bowl toward a large rock outcrop known as Le Gros Rognon (The Big Rock) and continuing along the mountainside.  The run can be nice and smooth in spots, but depending on weather conditions, there could be deep powder, crusty layers, and icy moguls to navigate.  About 2/3 down, the Refuge du Requin is a popular place to take a break, and 250 meters from there is the start of Mer de Glace.  If snow conditions are good, it’s possible to ski all the way down to Chamonix.  If not, the run ends at Montenvers, thus requiring a steep climb up iron stairs (misery!) to a gondola that connects to the Montenvers Railway.  At a leisurely pace, including lots of stops, sightseeing and long lift queues, the up/down round trip will take 4 – 6 hours, but don’t rush…..enjoy the ride and take in the views.

 

Mont Blanc and Chamonix valley illustration, including Valle Blanche

 

The Fateful Retreat of Mer de Glace

Valley glaciers like Mer de Glace are relentlessly moving, flowing, growing, shrinking and deforming as a result of weather (temperature and snowfall) and stresses caused by the massive weight.  As a result, they are appreciable indicators of climate change.

After a significant cold period in Europe during the late 19th century, Mer de Glace was so large that it reached as far as Chamonix in 1850.  Today, it’s hardly visible from Chamonix as the lower end of the glacier (the ‘snout’) has been shrinking during the last 30 years at a rate of about 4-5 meters (13-16 feet) a year.  There is concern the retreat will not stop as Mer de Glace is an important fresh water source for the region as well as a tourist destination, and Christian Vincent, a French glaciologist with the Laboratoire de Glaciologie et Geophysique (LGGE) and Institut de Recherche pour le Development (IRD), has warned it may shrink as much as 1.2 -1.4 kilometers (about ¾ of a mile) by the year 2040.

Resources/Information:
Wikipedia (Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc massif, Glacier, Richard Pococke, William Windham, Sr., French Alps, Chamonix, Chemin de fer du Montenvers, Aiguille du Midi, Little Ice Age)
The Annals of Mont Blanc – A Monograph by Charles Edward Mathews (1900)
Because It’s There – A Celebration of Mountaineering from 200 BC to Today (William Windham..from an Account of the Glaciers or Ice Alps in Savoy, in Two Letters) edited and translated by Alan S. Weber (2003)
Celebration of the Franco-English Friendship in Chamonix (1936), summitpost.org
Spiritual History of Ice: Romanticism, Science & Imagination by Eric G. Wilson
Chamonix visitor information:  findtransfers.com  (see also; chamonix.com, chamonix.net, ski-chamonix.net)
“Climate Change on Mont Blanc:  The Vanishing Mer de Glace” by Helena Fouquet (2015), bloomberg.com
Mont Blanc:  Glacier in Danger of Collapse, BBC News (September 25, 2019) – Italian authorities have closed roads and evacuated mountain huts after experts warned that part of a glacier on Mont Blanc could collapse.

Great runs, jumps & tricks on these ski videosThere are more bold backcountry runs, big jumps and tricks to see on the “Downhill Runs” video channel and explore at Skiing China

 

 

The terminus, or "toe" of Exit Glacier, as seen in 2011 from the Outwash Plain below it. Exit Glacier will likely never look like this again as warmer temperatures over the past few years have reduced the mass of the glacier.Filmakers traveled to Alaska to explore Exit Glacier, but along with stunningly beautiful mountain views and amazing blue ice, they saw melting.  FREE 2 WATCH → Glacier Exit 

 

 

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Feature photo is a still shot from the video “Ice Call” by PVS Company
Mer de Glace photo by Detroit Publishing Co. (1890-1900), US Library of Congress Prints & Photographs, Public Domain
Chamonix Valley Map sourced from chamonix.net
Crossing the Mer de Glace on foot, photo taken about 1902-1904, Zurich Central Library, Public Domain

Chasing the Light

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While most glacial ice is located in Antarctica and Greenland, there are actually glaciers on almost every continental landmass, covering approximately 15 million square kilometers (5.8 million square miles)– that’s 10% of Earth’s land surface. Artist Zaria Forman captures the massive, but fragile beauty of these amazing ice and snow formations in her work, and reminds us how important glaciers are to every living being on Earth, now and in the future.

Zaria Forman video courtesy of Ted Conferences LLC,  CC BY-NC-ND

Seventy-five percent (75%) of the world’s fresh water supply is stored within glaciers;  therefore, it’s impossible to overstate their importance to our survival. And, learning just a few basics about glacier formation and loss helps in understanding the urgent need to protect glaciers from melting away.

There are two primary types of glaciers:

Continental:  These are enormous masses of glacial ice and snow, known as “ice sheets”, that flow away from a central region and are mostly unaffected by underlying topography.  Found only in Greenland and Antarctica.

Alpine or Valley:  Glaciers in mountains that flow down valleys.  When two glaciers meet and merge at the base of mountains, the new glacier is called a piedmont glacier.  If the piedmont glacier flows into the sea, it’s called a tidewater glacier.  A cirque glacier is confined by a valley forming in a “cirque” (semicircular bowl-like basin at the head of a valley).  Valley glaciers (aka alpine glaciers) form in a mountain valley when more snow falls on mountain peaks during a year than melts during the summer, creating a snow pack that builds up, thickens, compresses, turns into ice, grows and moves slowing downhill (Mer de Glace and Exit Glacier are examples of a valley glacier).  An Ice Field (also spelled ‘icefield’) is an extensive area of ice and interconnected valley glaciers that usually form over high altitude basins and atop plateaus.  Ice caps cover mountain tops.

 

Map of world glaciers, NASA

 

Glacial ice is formed by the accumulation and compression of snow and ice over a period of years, often 100 years or more.  It’s not quite as dense as ice formed by freezing water because of tiny air bubbles trapped inside, and this unique composition allows light reflecting as white to be absorbed while blue light is transmitted and scattered, resulting in the distinctive blue color of a glacier.

Formation and survival of a glacier are affected by environmental and geological factors such as the slope of the land, amount of snowfall, temperature and winds.  The surface area of a healthy glacier is covered more than 60% by snow at the end of a melting season and produces good flow.  This requires a delicate balance of variable circumstances, and that’s been continually disrupted in recent history.

NASA comparison photos show the disappearing Muir Glacier
Muir Glacier, 1941 – 2004, NASA Climate 365

Since the early 20th century, glacier retreat and mass loss have accelerated and become more prevalent.  In fact, several glaciers, ice caps and ice shelves have completely disappeared, and approximately 400 billion tons of glacial ice were lost each year since 1994.  Many other glaciers are shrinking so rapidly they’ll likely vanish in a few more decades. Just one example is Muir Glacier in Alaska.  From 1941 to 2004, it receded about seven miles and lost more than 2,625 feet in depth.

Information/Resources:
Wikipedia (Glacier, Glacier mass balance)
“All About Glaciers“, National Snow and Ice Data Center Glaciers (terminology, notes and comments), Eastern Illinois University
Pizol Glacier:  Swiss hold funeral for the ice lost to global warming, BBC News (September 22, 2019)
Some of the Oldest Ice in the Arctic is Now Breaking Apart by Christopher Joyce, NPR Science (August 23, 2018)
“NASA Mission Takes Stock of Earth’s Melting Land Ice” (February 8, 2012) Jet Propulsion Laboratory
NASA Global Climate Change (Glaciers) – Interactive Global Ice Viewer
Common Questions and Myths About Glaciers, US National Park Service
“Steps to Prevent Glaciers from Melting” (February 19, 2016) The New Ecologist
Artist bio, works, shows and exhibitions, Zaria Forman on Artsy

 

Crossing the Mer de Glace on foot (1902-1904)
Mer de Glace Crossing, 1902 – 1904

The history and exploration of France’s Mer de Glace (‘Sea of Ice’) is fascinating, and it’s become an important fresh water source as well as a popular tourist destination. Sadly, it’s also disappearing.

 

 

 

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·Feature photo is a still shot taken from the Zaria Forman Ted Talk video
·Glacier Map, courtesy of NASA Earth Observatory, is a visual depiction of world glacier study and catalog by the Randolph Glacier Inventory (2014)
·Graphic:  Dramatic Glacier Melt (Muir Glacier, 1941/2004), NASA Climate 365

Retreat of Exit Glacier

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Located in Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska, Exit Glacier is one of 38 interconnected valley glaciers in the Harding Icefield, the largest ice field contained completely within the United States.  In the spring of 1968, the first documented mountaineering party succeeded in crossing the Harding Icefield, and Exit Glacier was given its name for serving as the exit off the ice field during the expedition.

Exit Glacier is one of Harding Icefield’s smaller glaciers, but is one of the most visited because of year-round, easy access by a roadway and hiking trails around and above the glacier.  When snow arrives in the area (usually mid-November) until early May each year, the access road is closed to cars but open to a wide range of winter sports and recreation, including snowmobiles, dogsleds, fat-tire bicycles, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

According to park research studies and recent enhanced monitoring and mapping, Exit Glacier has retreated about a mile in the past 100 years, and shrinking has escalated during the last few years with 187 feet (57 meters) lost from 2013-14 and another 136 feet (41.5 meters) in 2015.

Filmakers, Raphael Rogers, Kristin Gerhart and Paul Rennick, traveled to Alaska to explore Exit Glacier, but along with stunningly beautiful mountain views and amazing blue ice, they saw melting.  Local guide, Rick Brown, explained what they were seeing and what’s been happening at Exit Glacier in this short video documentary, Glacier Exit.

 

Understanding Valley Glaciers

In order to understand why glaciers are considered a visual indicator of climate change, it helps to understand some basics about glacier formation, movement and their sensitivity to fluctuations in temperature.

Exit Glacier is what is known as a valley glacier (aka alpine glacier) that forms when more snow falls on mountain peaks during a year than melts during the summer, creating a snow pack that builds up and thickens.  Over time, the weight of the snow causes the snow pack to compress and turn into ice, and the glacier grows as more and more snow and ice accumulate.  Then, the weight of the ice starts to slowly push down the mountain through the valley.  This downward movement of the glacier is hardly noticeable to the observer, but it’s a powerful force of nature that erodes the ground beneath it, stripping the valley floor and knocking loose rocks and debris.  Along the way down, the glacier becomes a mixture of rock, dirt and ice.

While snow falls in the cold, higher elevation temperatures at the top of the glacier (the ‘accumulation zone’) during valley glacier formation, the ice is continually melting in the warmer area at the bottom of the glacier (the ‘ablation zone’).  If the accumulation at the top pushes ice down the valley faster than the ice melts at the bottom, the glacier advances.  When ice at the bottom melts faster than ice accumulates and moves down from the top, the glacier recedes.

During a glacier recession, ice and rock continue to flow downhill to the toe of the glacier (the end of the glacier at any given point in time, aka ‘terminus’ or ‘snout’), and the rocks are then continuously deposited on the ground at the front edge of the glacier as the ice melts.  During periods of ‘stagnation’, the ice at the front of the glacier melts at essentially the same rate as the ice flows down, resulting in the toe of the glacier staying in one place.  Rock and debris, however, continue to be pushed downward to the front edge of the glacier where it is deposited as the ice melts away.

Information/Resources:

Exit Glacier – visitor information.  How to get up close to the glacier and explore the area.

The Retreat of Exit Glacier  by Susan Huse

Kenai Fjords National Park   (Where Mountains, Ice and Ocean Meet) – learn more, plan your visit, get involved

Physical Science in Kenai Fjords, by Virginia Valentine, Keith Echelmeyer, Susan Campbell, Sandra Zirnheld (Alaska Park Science: Volume 3 / Issue 1, 2004)

⇒ Exit Glacier conditions (May 28, 2018 update), an ice fall hazard zone was identified by Kenai Fjords park officials at the toe and sides of Exit Glacier.  The condition is dangerous due to tall blocks and slabs of ice, and entry into the ice fall hazard zone is prohibited;  however, the road to Exit Glacier and hiking trails remain open.

 

A view of the Mer de Glace, Chamonix Valley, France at end of the 19th century

Located above the Chamonix valley within the Mont Blanc massif mountain range of the French Alps, the valley glacier, Mer de Glace (‘Sea of Ice’), is the largest and longest glacier in France and a popular tourist attraction as it offers spectacular mountain views as well as tours, exhibits, off-piste ski runs, and restaurant/hotel.  Unfortunately, it has also been retreating during the last 30 years.

 

Artist Zaria Forman captures the massive, but fragile beauty of amazing ice and snow formations in her work, and reminds us how important glaciers are to every living being on Earth, now and in the future.

 

 

Feature image “Toe of Exit Glacier” is courtesy of the US National Park Service/Paige Calamari, PD. The 2011 photo of the toe of Exit Glacier was taken from the Outwash Plain below.  Since that time, warmer temperatures have reduced the glacier mass of Exit Glacier, and it will likely never look like this photo again.

 

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