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Experience

Polar Bear

January 1, 2021 By Zola Zeester Leave a Comment

Polar bears face loss of sea ice due to climate change.

Cinematographer Dom West and photographer Joshua Holko along with director, Abraham Joffe and crew trekked over 120 miles per day in Svalbard (a Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean located about midway between continental Norway and the North Pole) to capture polar bears on film for the video documentary, Ghosts of the Arctic.  It’s awesome.

 

A polar bear's home is on the ice.Polar bears are marine mammals that have been around for a very long time, and for thousands of years, have been an important figure in the material, spiritual and cultural life of indigenous people throughout the Arctic region.  A ‘sister species’ to the brown bear, the polar bear (Ursus maritimus) evolved somewhere around 350,000 – 6 million years ago, and at some point, split off from the brown bear and moved North, during which time a series of evolutionary changes occurred allowing the polar bear to survive the harsh conditions of the Arctic.  The polar bear of today has black skin covering a layer of fat up to 4.49 inches (11.4 centimeters) thick, small ears, a short tail, and fur made of dense, insulating underfur with top guard hairs of varying lengths that prevent heat loss, and paws and claws perfect for roaming around the Arctic and swimming.

Home for a polar bear is on the ice in the Arctic region, including Alaska, Canada, Russia, Greenland and Norway (60-80% are in Canada), and it feeds almost exclusively on the fat of ice-dependent seals. As sea ice advances and retreats each season, polar bears may journey thousands of miles to find food, and they rely on the ice to travel, hunt seals, breed, and sometimes den.

Prior to the 1970’s, polar bear populations were in decline as a result of unsustainable hunting and trapping that began as far back as the 1600s, but a 1973 international agreement that strictly regulates commercial hunting helped the population numbers improve.  It’s estimated there are currently 22,000-31,000 polar bears in the world.  In the 21st century, however, polar bears face additional threats including pollution, oil & gas exploration/development, shipping, human-bear interactions, and climate change as Arctic sea ice is disappearing at an alarming rate.  If ice-free periods exceed a polar bear’s fasting ability of 220 days, it will be difficult, if not impossible, for polar bears to survive, especially in areas that lack an alternate food source.

In May 2006, the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) added the polar bear to its ‘Red List’ of the world’s most imperiled animals, predicting a 30% reduction in the polar bear population in the next 45 years.

BYU Polar Bear Research Video:  Working with Polar Bears International, Brigham Young University Professor of Wildlife Sciences, Tom Smith, and his students are engaged in a multiyear study to monitor maternal polar bear den sites in Alaska and to determine how climate change is impacting these animals.

Information/Resources:
Polar Bear International (Polar Bears 101, Human Interaction, Tracking Map & FAQ)
Defenders of Wildlife – Basic Facts About Polar Bears 
World Wide Fund For Nature – Polar Bear Status
International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources, Red List of Threatened Species -Polar Bears
Conservation of Polar Bears in Canada, Environment and Climate Change Canada
How a Production Team Broke Cameras and Braved -30° to Shoot Polar Bears in 4K, by Emily Buder, No Film School (August 2, 2017)

 

Feature photo is a screen shot taken from the Untitled Film Works video, Ghosts of the Arctic
Photo of Arctic polar bear is courtesy of Pixabay/Pexels, CC0

Filed Under: Insight, Nature, Video Tagged With: Documentary, Environment, Photography, Wildlife

Mer de Glace

December 26, 2020 By Zola Zeester 1 Comment

Skiing the famous Valle Blance in Chamonix includes a ride down Mer de Glace

 

A view of the Mer de Glace, Chamonix Valley, France at end of the 19th century
Late 19th century view of Mer de Glace, US Library of Congress, PD

Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) is categorized a “valley glacier”, a type of glacier that originates from mountain glaciers and flows down valleys, and located above the Chamonix valley within the Mont Blanc massif mountain range of the French Alps.  Formed by the confluence of the Leschaux and Génant glaciers, the Mer de Glace is the longest and largest glacier in France, and one the biggest tourist attractions in the Chamonix valley as it’s accessible by the historic Montenvers Railway (Chemin de fer du Montenvers) and offers spectacular mountain views as well as tours, exhibits, and restaurant/hotel. However, the powerful beauty and recreational benefits of Mer de Glace were not always appreciated.

During the classical and medieval periods of European history, ice was deemed mysterious, evil and dangerous, and glaciers aroused intense fear as they were thought to be inhabited by demons that swallowed up unwary victims as well as whole villages.  Consequently, glaciers were avoided, not explored, deepening myths and superstitions for many centuries.  In 1690, fearful villagers of Chamonix took action against glacial evil by retaining the services of a bishop to exorcise the glaciers.

Two Englishmen on expedition to Chamonix in 1741, William Windham (1717-1761) an English landowner and Richard Pococke (1704-1765) a high ranking clergyman and anthropologist, disregarded the forewarning of evil lurking in glaciers, and climbed up the mountain for 3¾ hours with the aid of local guides and porters to carry wine (essential drink for 18th century adventure travelers) and provisions.  It was a successful excursion as they returned safely and were able to provide the first written description of the glacier they called ‘Mer de Glace’.  The achievement also marks the beginning of change in attitude as the phenomena of the Sea of Ice later attracted writers, adventurers, artists and photographers.

 

Crossing the Mer de Glace on foot (1902-1904)
Mer de Glace Crossing, Zurich Central Library collection, 1902 – 1904, Public Domain

 

Two hundred and seventy-five years later, the explorers of Mer de Glace are on skis.  In the video Ice Call from PVS Company, pro skier, Sam Favret, takes you on a freestyle tour through the icy waves, trails, and tunnels of Mer de Glace.

 

Vallée Blanche

Mer de Glace is certainly skiable, and you don’t have to be a ski pro like Sam Favret or an expert to enjoy the unique backcountry experience via the iconic off-piste ski route, Vallée Blanche.  But, there are risks.  The surface of Mer de Glace is very rough with gradient drops, large hunks of ice, deep crevasses, and seracs, making it extremely dangerous without sufficient snowfall, good intermediate skills (in all types of terrains & snow conditions) and a local mountain guide.

The Vallée Blanche is accessible from Chamonix, France via a 20 minute ride on the Aiguille du Midi cable car to the mid-station Plan de l’Aiguille (2,317m), then a walk through a tunnel and down a precarious ridge to a small, level area— the starting point for the main Vallée Blanche runs.  There are four: the classic “voie normale” (the normal way), and the more challenging, Le Vrai Vallee Blanche, the Petit Envers du Plan and Grand Envers du Plan.

For the most part, the voie normale follows the valley floor through dynamic terrain, beginning with a descent into a bowl toward a large rock outcrop known as Le Gros Rognon (The Big Rock) and continuing along the mountainside.  The run can be nice and smooth in spots, but depending on weather conditions, there could be deep powder, crusty layers, and icy moguls to navigate.  About 2/3 down, the Refuge du Requin is a popular place to take a break, and 250 meters from there is the start of Mer de Glace.  If snow conditions are good, it’s possible to ski all the way down to Chamonix.  If not, the run ends at Montenvers, thus requiring a steep climb up iron stairs (misery!) to a gondola that connects to the Montenvers Railway.  At a leisurely pace, including lots of stops, sightseeing and long lift queues, the up/down round trip will take 4 – 6 hours, but don’t rush…..enjoy the ride and take in the views.

 

Mont Blanc and Chamonix valley illustration, including Valle Blanche

 

The Fateful Retreat of Mer de Glace

Valley glaciers like Mer de Glace are relentlessly moving, flowing, growing, shrinking and deforming as a result of weather (temperature and snowfall) and stresses caused by the massive weight.  As a result, they are appreciable indicators of climate change.

After a significant cold period in Europe during the late 19th century, Mer de Glace was so large that it reached as far as Chamonix in 1850.  Today, it’s hardly visible from Chamonix as the lower end of the glacier (the ‘snout’) has been shrinking during the last 30 years at a rate of about 4-5 meters (13-16 feet) a year.  There is concern the retreat will not stop as Mer de Glace is an important fresh water source for the region as well as a tourist destination, and Christian Vincent, a French glaciologist with the Laboratoire de Glaciologie et Geophysique (LGGE) and Institut de Recherche pour le Development (IRD), has warned it may shrink as much as 1.2 -1.4 kilometers (about ¾ of a mile) by the year 2040.

Resources/Information:
Wikipedia (Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc massif, Glacier, Richard Pococke, William Windham, Sr., French Alps, Chamonix, Chemin de fer du Montenvers, Aiguille du Midi, Little Ice Age)
The Annals of Mont Blanc – A Monograph by Charles Edward Mathews (1900)
Because It’s There – A Celebration of Mountaineering from 200 BC to Today (William Windham..from an Account of the Glaciers or Ice Alps in Savoy, in Two Letters) edited and translated by Alan S. Weber (2003)
Celebration of the Franco-English Friendship in Chamonix (1936), summitpost.org
Spiritual History of Ice: Romanticism, Science & Imagination by Eric G. Wilson
Chamonix visitor information:  findtransfers.com  (see also; chamonix.com, chamonix.net, ski-chamonix.net)
“Climate Change on Mont Blanc:  The Vanishing Mer de Glace” by Helena Fouquet (2015), bloomberg.com
Mont Blanc:  Glacier in Danger of Collapse, BBC News (September 25, 2019) – Italian authorities have closed roads and evacuated mountain huts after experts warned that part of a glacier on Mont Blanc could collapse.

Great runs, jumps & tricks on these ski videosThere are more bold backcountry runs, big jumps and tricks to see on the “Downhill Runs” video channel and explore at Skiing China

 

 

The terminus, or "toe" of Exit Glacier, as seen in 2011 from the Outwash Plain below it. Exit Glacier will likely never look like this again as warmer temperatures over the past few years have reduced the mass of the glacier.Filmakers traveled to Alaska to explore Exit Glacier, but along with stunningly beautiful mountain views and amazing blue ice, they saw melting.  FREE 2 WATCH → Glacier Exit 

 

 

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Feature photo is a still shot from the video “Ice Call” by PVS Company
Mer de Glace photo by Detroit Publishing Co. (1890-1900), US Library of Congress Prints & Photographs, Public Domain
Chamonix Valley Map sourced from chamonix.net
Crossing the Mer de Glace on foot, photo taken about 1902-1904, Zurich Central Library, Public Domain

Filed Under: Adventure, Challenge, Exploration, Nature, New Feature, Snow & Ice, Travel, Video Tagged With: Environment, Exploration, Glacier, Hiking, Skiing

Epic Skimo

November 27, 2020 By Zola Zeester Leave a Comment

Watch skiers face the many physical and mental challenges of the mountains in order accomplish ski mountaineering world records

Ski Mountaineering (Skimo) involves climbing a mountain on skis or by carrying them and descending on skis using varied ski touring, Telemark, backcountry skiing and mountaineering techniques. A recreational as well as competitive sport, skimo requires a high level of physical ability and stamina along with technical know-how and skills.  Enthusiasts enjoy the adventure, variety of terrain, extreme challenges, and pushing limits.

In the mountains, you may find a ‘Netherworld’ … “where pain, grief, joy and exhilaration mix into moments of transcendent beauty”.*   

In 2018, ski mountaineers, Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison, completed the first ski descent of the 27,940-foot (8,516 m) Mount Lhotse, part of the Everest massif and the fourth-highest mountain in the world.  An incredible accomplishment when you consider the extreme challenge of just climbing to the summit of Lhotse (less than 400 climbers have summited Mount Lhotse and at least 20 have died trying), and there have been about a dozen failed attempts to ski down. Video documentary, Lhotse, tells the story of Hilaree and Jim’s extraordinary climb up and ski descent with personal and expert commentary and mind-blowing photography of this “mini-miracle” skimo adventure.    

 

 

In 2016, Aaron Rice set out to climb and ski 2.5 million vertical feet in the backcountry without using climbing assistance from motorized equipment (e.g., chair lifts, helicopters), challenging the world record of 2 million vertical feet set by Greg Hill in 2010.  It’s an epic endurance test as Aaron must chase after snow around the world and ski more than 330 days in order to accomplish his record breaking goal.  Watch this amazing journey in the short video 2.5 million, filmed, directed and edited by Tyler Wilkinson-Ray.

 

Video documentary Follow Through tells the story of skier Caroline Gleich’s motivation and determination to ski the 90 difficult and insanely dangerous ski mountaineering lines in the backcountry of Utah’s Wasatch Mountains first described by ski mountaineer Andrew McLean in his **1998 book “The Chuting Gallery: A Guide to Steep Skiing in the Wasatch Mountains”.

 

Information/Resources:

International Ski Mountaineering Federation – governing body for ski mountaineering competitions
United States Ski Mountaineering Association –  sanctions and governs competitive ski mountaineering racing in US, and promotes recreational ski mountaineering.  The USSMA website includes how-to information, resource links and videos.
*The Long Road To Lhotse by David Bunker, Tahoe Quarterly, Winter 2018-19  

 

If you ski, board or ride in the backcountry or live in snow covered mountainous terrain, avalanches are a destructive and deathly threat that must not be ignored.Avalanches are a powerful and deadly threat to ski mountaineers as well as anyone living or playing in snow-covered mountainous areas;  therefore, no one should venture out in the backcountry unless up to speed on avalanche safety and accident prevention measures.

 

 

Follow adventure skiers as they travel the world in this 3 season video series, A Skier's Journey.You should also watch Adventure Skiing (Free to Watch, On-Demand video documentaries)  Adventure skiers travel the world, discovering great beauty and dangers in the mountain landscapes of Europe, Asia, North and South America, and the Middle East.

 

 

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Feature photo is courtesy of Robson Hatsukami Morgan/Unsplash, CC0

Filed Under: Adventure, Snow & Ice, Video Tagged With: Documentary, Skiing

The Martini

November 26, 2020 By Zola Zeester Leave a Comment

There's no cocktail that matches the cool, crisp taste of the classic martini.

It’s very American;  however, there are differing theories about the true origin of the martini as well as countless variations, including drinks called ‘martini’ or ‘tini’ something or other (e.g., vodka martini, appletini, french martini, dirty martini, chocolate martini).

The first dry martini, aka the ‘classic’, is often traced to a cocktail mixed in the early 20th century at New York City’s Knickerbocker Hotel and another called the “Marguerite Cocktail” in a drink mixology book published in 1904.  Tastes at the time were changing to a preference for less sugary cocktails, and by mid-century, the martini was at the peak of its popularity as it came to personify modern, sexy, sophisticated and glamorous ideals.  Watch any film from that era, and you’ll get the idea from the many scenes involving mixing and drinking martinis.  That sort of thing became outdated in the 1970’s, but in the 90’s, the martini experienced a comeback as it was rediscovered and remixed for a new happy hour crowd.

At the time of a recent search for ‘something other than wine’ to drink, it had been a few years since I’d even thought about drinking a martini, and the sparsely stocked liquor cabinet was lacking in options. However, a forgotten cocktail shaker was discovered hidden in the back behind an old bottle of rum. The big surprise… found gin and vermouth that had probably been aging 10+ years in half-emptied bottles, and there was a fresh lemon in the refrigerator.  It was destiny.

I had a memory of making martinis with friends, but it had been a long time and my cocktail making skills are wanting (‘no skills at all’ is more accurate).  Did some research, and came up with this version of a classic dry martini using ingredients on hand.  After the first icy cold sip, I wondered why I’d waited so long for this bliss.  It’s not really difficult to mix up one.

2 ounces dry gin  (Tanqueray)
1 ounce dry vermouth (Martini & Rossi, Extra Dry)
ice
lemon twist*

Chill martini glass in the freezer
Pour gin & vermouth in shaker, fill halfway with ice, and shake** about 20 seconds
Strain in the chilled glass and garnish with lemon twist
Serve immediately, and savor simple perfection

CHEERS!

Editor’s Notes:

*If you don’t have a ‘channeling knife’ bar tool, use a vegetable peeler or paring knife to remove a strip of peel from a fresh lemon with as little of the white pulp as possible remaining.  Before dropping the peel into the glass, ‘twist’ it over the drink to release the lemon oil scent. I chilled the peels in the refrigerator while mixing up the drink.  Olives are also a favorite martini garnish that create a very different taste.

**The ‘shake or stir’ controversy comes down to this— it’s your drink, you decide.  Shaking creates a cloudy, airy, slightly textured drink.  Stirring results in a clear, silky smooth martini. [Stirring Tips:  Add spirits into a chilled mixing glass. Place long spoon in the glass before adding ice (about 2/3 full). Stir briskly in circular motion at least 50 times (30-25 seconds).  Strain in chilled drinking glass using a julep strainer.]

The gin to vermouth ratio is personal choice.  I went with a conservative 2:1 for this experiment, and liked the results.  In the 1930’s the typical ratio was 3:1.  It went to 4:1 in the 40’s, and the gin portion continued to escalate in the late 20th century with ratios reaching as high as 50:1 and 100:1.

Reference:  “There is Something About a Martini”, by Max Rudin, American Heritage (July/August 1997)

 

Margarita mixology history, basic cocktail recipe and helpful tips for creating your personal "best" Margarita

Ready to try a Margarita?
Then you’ve got to check out Margarita Mixology 

 

 

 

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Feature martini photo by Flickr user, Billy Abbott, CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Filed Under: Gastronomy, History Tagged With: Drinks, Recipe

Capitale de Noël

November 25, 2020 By Zola Zeester 5 Comments

The Strasbourg Christmas Tree, France - December 2017

Strasbourg is an historic, multi-cultural city located close to the eastern border of France with Germany in the Alsace region, and known for its architecture, medieval streets and the Grande Île (Grand Island) city center, Gothic churches, parks and museums, Alsatian food specialities, and the Christmas Markets.

The Christmas Markets have been a tradition in Strasbourg for four centuries, making it one of the oldest in Europe, and the city seems to magically transform into a dazzling wonderland during the month of December.  Everything—-streets, buildings, churches, shop windows and balconies are covered in lights and decorations, each uniquely beautiful.  Hundreds of stalls and shops throughout the city offer Christmas ornaments, arts and crafts, gift items, souvenirs, food and drink, and there is a wide variety of entertainment, including concerts and cultural events.  Absolutely no doubt — Strasbourg deserves the title Capitale de Noël (the Capital of Christmas).

 

 

A travelogue of our visit to the Christmas Markets in Strasbourg, France

After a two week stay in the French countryside, a friend suggested a quick trip to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets before the return home.  We explored for three nights/two and a half days, and discovered a charming city full of lights, history and special moments.

Getting There:  We took a high-speed SNCF train from Le Mans to Strasbourg.  The trip schedule was 2.5 hours as there were a few stops on the route, but the train was 30 minutes late leaving the Le Mans station. [Note: Train travel has advantages, but it’s not exactly easy for beginners and/or those with little or no French language skills.  Also, nation-wide transportation strikes can cause havoc.  See ‘Train Travel in France’ below for links to info and helpful tips.]   Upon arrival, it was dark and cold, and that made the walk in search of our hotel harder.  At the entrance to the city center, a security check required us to open each of our bags for a search.  So far, not really feeling the Christmas spirit.

Moon Before Yule:  We were so lucky to see the biggest and brightest Supermoon of 2017 while walking the streets of Strasbourg.  Gorgeous! 

Festive Reunion:  The Christmas Markets are best when shared with family and friends.  We joined cousin, Ursula, and her friend Bine for a very special ‘reunion’ breakfast at the BOMA Hotel (7, rue du 22 Novembre 67000) before they had to drive back to Remscheid, Germany.  The night before, we all enjoyed a late dinner at a brasserie near our hotels. There was a happy, friendly crowd, good food & service.  [Aedaen Place, 4 Rue Des Aveugles]

Church of St. Thomas:  We had been making our way through cold, wet streets crowded with people for hours when we ran across St. Thomas (11, rue Martin Luther) and decided to take a look inside.  It was so much more than we expected.

Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg:  Will forever remember the feeling when turning a corner and — wow! there it is.  This “gigantic and delicate marvel” (Victor Hugo) is the sixth tallest church in the world and the highest surviving structure built entirely in the Middle Ages.  The interior is nothing short of magnificent with the choir screen dated 1252, grand high alters (1500 and 1682), huge stained glass windows (mostly dated 14th century, some from 12th, 13th and 20th centuries), a suspended pipe organ, and one of the largest astronomical clocks in the world.  I lit a votive in memory of Opa Kneupper, and we all sat in awe for awhile in the pews.

Palais Rohan:  Next door to the Strasbourg Cathedral is the Rohan Palace (1732-1742), former residence of prince-bishops and cardinals of the French noble family Rohan.  Today, it’s considered a masterpiece of French Baroque architecture, and houses three museums: the Archaeological Museum (in the basement), the Museum of Decorative Arts (ground floor) and the Museum of Fine Arts (1st and 2nd floors). We visited all three, and liked the Museum of Decorative Arts best because of the opportunity to walk through the grand apartments and chambers of the palace.

Petite France:  With half-timbered houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, stone bridges and waterways, this is the most picturesque district of old Strasbourg, and the location of my favorite Christmas market.

Glühwein and Lebkuchen:  Really– It’s all about the food and drink!  If you’ve ever been to a German Christmas Market (Christkindlesmarkt), you’ll always remember the smells and tastes of glühwein (warm, spiced red wine) and lebkuchen (gingerbread-like cookies), and I was guessing there would be a good supply in Strasbourg because of its historic French-German culture.  I was right, but it took some hunting and a lot of tasting.  Along the way, discovered a wonderful Christmas tea, cookies and stollen (fruit bread).  My absolute best-ever/favorite stollen was discovered at Maison Alsacienne de Biscuiterie (9, rue des Serruriers – near St Thomas church).  A wonderful little bakery; also, loved the traditional Christmas cookies and macarons ‘toujours’.  At a small booth just a few steps away from Maison Alsacienne, we enjoyed a perfect serving of glühwein (located in front of Les deux gourmandes).  I was about to give up hope when I found really, really good lebkuchen from Mireille Oster at a booth in Petite France, and you must go to a Dammann shop (2 locations: 48, rue du Fossé des Tanneurs & 19, rue des Orfèvres) for the most delicious teas.

Snow:  Yes, there was that perfect moment on day 2 when we knew — it’s Christmas.

 

The Strasbourg Christmas Tree, France - December 2017
Strasbourg Christmas Tree ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
The Strasbourg Christmas Markets are best when shared with family and friends
Reunion in Strasbourg ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Christmas Markets at Night ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
Strasbourg Christmas Markets ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Leclerc Memorial ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Christmas Markets ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Christmas Market ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Christmas Markets ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Christmas Markets ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Christmas Markets ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Christmas Markets ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Christmas Markets ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Half-timber homes, Strasbourg ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Cathedral ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Cathedral ©2017 Zeester Media LLC
A travelogue of a visit to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets along with tips on how to get around and enjoy the festivities.
Strasbourg Cathedral Rose Window, Pixabay CC0

 

Christmas Markets Travel Tips (from lessons learned)

It’s best to stay in the city center, but hotel room reservations can be difficult, if not impossible, during the Christmas Markets.  Plan ahead and book well in advance.

Prepare for long walks in the cold, rain and snow.  Coat, hat, gloves and walking shoes–the works.  At the same time, pack as light as possible because the streets are bumpy (those cobblestones are killers!), and there are invariably steps to climb and descend as well as broken elevators and escalators in the train stations and airports.  You can get lucky (like I did) and a kind soul will help you with your bags, but don’t count on it.

It’s surprisingly easy to get lost (at least in our experience).  Wandering around can lead to interesting discoveries, but can also waste valuable time when you’re on a tight schedule.  Directions received from helpful locals are often unreliable and/or confusing because of language issues, hard to remember street names, and the many twists and turns of medieval streets.  Best to study-up on the city layout beforehand, and have a map (paper or digital) with you at all times.  [Tip: rue = street]

The crowds seem to pick up later in the day, and this causes a lot of crushing jam-ups in the narrow streets, small shops, cafés and bistros.  Go early to see and do more, but do not miss the late evening hours when the decorative lights are sparkling everywhere, creating a fairylike, romantic winter wonderland.

Look closely at ornaments and decorations sold in the booths.  We were disappointed at first because many seemed to be mass-produced imports, but there are some beautifully hand-crafted, unique, and locally made items available at the markets.  Take the time to search, and you’ll find something special.

Strasbourg is English-friendly, making communication much easier for English speaking tourists with no French language skills.  However, making an effort to learn some basics and use French greetings and phrases can smooth the way for a better experience.  Try practicing with Duolingo, free game-like French lessons (online or apps available).  It’s kinda fun.

The French have specific times and ways of eating during the day —  Follow the customs or go hungry. Breakfast (le petit déjeuner) is typically bread or croissants, butter and jam, and a cup of tea, coffee long or café au lait, or hot chocolate, but hotels and cafes may offer more variety.  Lunch (le déjeuner) is the main meal of the day, and the French like to take time to relax and enjoy a full menu, including a starter (une entrée), main course (le plat principal), and cheese course and/or dessert.  Most restaurants open for lunch at 11:30am and continue serving new customers until about 1pm (FYI – lunchtime hours are sometimes closer to 12-2pm), and many offer a special fixed lunchtime menu (le Menu du jour) or a special main course called “plat du jour”.  Evening dinner (le diner) is much the same with service at restaurants typically starting around 8pm, but dinner at a restaurant is considered by the French to be a special event with a bigger menu, including classic three/four (sometimes 5-6) courses courses requiring 2-3 hours savoring at the table.  Travelers looking for a brunch, ‘late’ lunch or early dinner will have problems finding a place that will serve them.  During the Christmas Markets, Strasbourg restaurants may not take dinner reservations or they’ll book up early, so plan ahead.  If you missed your chance to dine at a restaurant, keep walking to find a café, bistro or brasserie for good food and flexible hours.

Its always nice to have a few snacks and drinks in the hotel room, and we got everything we needed at the small grocery, U-Express, 5 Grand Rue.  Take along a big shopping bag to carry all the bottles of wine.

Feeling a little under-the-weather?  Look for the lighted green cross sign.  It’s the mark of a French pharmacy, and they’ve probably got a quick, easy solution for you.  Just walk in, point to your trouble spot, and explain the problem you’re having.

Information/Resources:

Christmas Markets in Strasbourg, an online visitor’s guide in French, German & English languages.  [2019 Christmas Markets:  November 22 – December 30]

Strasbourg Office of Tourism (information on all the things to see and do in Strasbourg)

Train Travel in France –  Guide to Traveling in France by Train; and French Your Way (tips on how to buy a ticket at the train station and locate the platform and your coach for boarding)  [Editor’s Note:  2019 –  A nation-wide strike will make train travel to Strasbourg difficult, if not impossible;  therefore, you must check ahead and have a plan B.  Find information on train travel during strike and suggested alternatives (car rental and bus) →  Here]

Security – Since a bomb threat in the year 2000, the Strasbourg Christmas Markets festival has been under reinforced security.  [Editor’s note: In 2017, there were security entry check points requiring a search of luggage and bags, and armed police and soldiers patrolled the streets.  Despite the vigilance, tragedy occurred on the evening of December 14, 2018, when a man attacked people on the city center streets near the markets with a gun and knife, killing 5 and injuring 11.  As a result, the markets were closed for a day and re-opened with additional security measures, including shorter hours, limited tram service and closed bridges.  Find visitor safety tips → here ]

Wikipedia:  Strasbourg Cathedral, St Thomas’ Church, Palais Rohan

Museum of Decorative Arts (museum website translated to English language)

Feature photo:  The Strasbourg Christmas Tree © 2017 Zeester Media LLC
The 2017 Christmas Tree is 30 meters high (more than 98 feet), weighs 7-9 tons, and comes from the Donon area of Lorraine, France.  It’s decorated with 7 kilometers (4.4 miles) of twinkling fairy lights, along with more than 300 flashing lights, 40 large baubles featuring gold stars and 180 illuminated angels, biscuits, candles, apples and stars to create a “Christmas of Yesteryear” theme.

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Filed Under: History, Travel Tagged With: Exploration

Glowing Glühwein

November 25, 2020 By Zola Zeester 2 Comments

Enjoy hot spiced mulled wine during the cold winter days and nights with this easy to follow recipe for traditional Glühwein

Glühwein (‘glowing wine’) is a popular mulled wine with a tradition in German speaking countries and the Alsace region of France, especially during the holidays when it is offered at Christmas markets.  One taste, and there’s no doubt about the reason for the popularity;  it’s a delicious, flavorful winter drink that instantly warms and comforts.  It’s also easy to make this speciality at home on your stovetop with an added bonus — your kitchen will be filled with beautiful holiday aromas.

There are a number of Glühwein variations, and many family favorite recipes differ slightly.  Some recipes call for anise star, vanilla bean, or a splash of brandy, and there is a non-alcoholic version (‘Kinderpunsch’).  But, the best Glühwein recipes have traditional basics in common — heated red wine, spices, sugar and citrus, so we recommend you start with the recipe below (Zola’s personal favorite), and if you’d like to tweak it, experiment with added or adjusted ingredients and different wines when making the next batch.  And, there will be a next batch because you, your family and friends will love this holiday magic in a mug.

 

Enjoy hot spiced mulled wine during the cold winter days and nights with this easy to follow recipe for traditional Glühwein

Glühwein Recipe

Ingredients:

1 bottle Red Wine.  Use any good quality (but not expensive) big, bold and full-bodied red wine (Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Zinfandel, or try a blended red wine). 

2 cups Water
4 – 5 Tablespoons Sugar (adjust to your liking)

1 Cinnamon Stick
3 – 6 Whole Cloves
2 – 4 Allspice Berries

1 Orange  (sliced)
1 Lemon (sliced) 

Directions:

  1. Put water, sugar, and spices into a large saucepan or casserole dish placed on a stovetop, and bring to a boil. Let simmer for about 15 – 20 minutes.
  2. Add the wine, orange and lemon slices. Heat through until the wine is steaming, but be careful to not boil and don’t let it simmer.
  3. Remove the cinnamon stick, cloves and allspice berries. Serve immediately in mugs, or store cooled Glühwein in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week, and reheat later to steaming in a saucepan (heat up slowly and do not boil).

Notes:  Makes approximately 5 servings.  Recipe can be doubled, or triple for a really big holiday party.

Feuerzangenbowl  (‘Fire Tongs Punch’) is a German celebratory wine punch often served during the Christmas holidays and New Year’s Eve, featuring a lighted, rum soaked sugar cone dripping into a hot bowl of Glühwein.  It is quite a show! Watch Chef Uwe Rudnick explain how it’s done in this demonstration video.         

 

        

 

There's no cocktail that matches the cool, crisp taste of the classic martini.It never goes out of style — How to make → The Perfect Martini  

 

 

 

 

 

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Feature Glühwein photo:  Hannah Permberton/Unsplash CC0

Filed Under: Cookery, FREEBIES, Gastronomy Tagged With: Drinks

Voyageurs

November 22, 2020 By Zola Zeester 2 Comments

Stunningly beautiful photography of the lakes and skies of Voyageurs National Park

 

This “More Than Just Parks” video, Voyageurs 8K, is a Pattiz Brothers Film, produced by Sea Raven Media.  It was filmed during a few weeks time spent at Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota USA.  The views are breathtaking, and will take you to a wonderful place.  Watch in full screen and use earphones for the ultimate experience.

After eight decades of public and legislative contention, 218,054 acres of the lake country of northern Minnesota were established a US national park in 1975, Voyageurs National Park.  The name of the park is in recognition of the legendary French-Canadian “voyageurs” canoe men hired by trading companies to transport trade goods and furs in the area during the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s a beautiful park with landscape, geology, wildlife and history creating an exceptional outdoor setting for an awe-inspiring visitor experience and year-round recreation.

There are 30 park lakes (40% of the area), providing open water for boating, canoeing and kayaking from mid-spring through mid-fall, and fishing throughout the year (ice fishing in winter). The eco-rich landscape and diversity of wildlife offer opportunities for hiking, birding (over 240 species, including bald eagles and osprey), and nature walks while the northern latitude location and dark skies make for excellent stargazing and a chance to see the Milky Way and northern lights. During winter months, the park becomes a frozen wonderland—perfect for snowshoe and cross-country skiing as well as snowmobiling over 110 miles of maintained trails.

Voyageurs National Park Information/Resources:
“The Heart of the Continent“, Voyageurs – National Park Minnesota
Voyageurs National Park Association

More Fun in the Parks:  There are more than 400 US national parks available to everyone, every day. Most are free to enjoy, and the 117 that charge an entry fee offer fee-free days throughout the year. Use the search tools here →   Find Your Park  to find the perfect place to visit.


Beauty of nature in landscapes is seen in this view of aurora borealis reflecting on a lakeFREE To WATCH the Natural Beauty channel, an On2In2™ collection of short videos, including other More Than Just Parks films.  It’s a great way to escape for a few minutes, and start planning your next outdoor excursion.  

 

The cone vent, Pu'u O o, of the Kilauea volcano, HawaiiLocated on the Island of Hawaii (the Big Island) in the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Kīlauea is one of the most active volcanoes on planet Earth, and the fire goddess really puts on a big show.  You’ve got to see it.

 

This artifact of ancient American Native culture is located in Upper Mule Canyon of Comb Ridge in Bears Ears National Monument in Utah.

See the historic natural beauty of Bears Ears National Monument
in the high desert country of southeastern Utah.

 

 

 

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The feature photo is a screen shot taken from the “Voyageurs” video

Filed Under: Adventure, Experience, Exploration, Nature, Travel, Video Tagged With: Birding, Boating, Fishing, Hiking, Skiing, Stargazing

Silver King

November 22, 2020 By Zola Zeester Leave a Comment

Tarpon are considered one of the best saltwater sport fish because of their fight and jumping ability, but they are not a food fish.

Tarpons are large, air breathing fish of the genus, Megalops, and they’ve been swimming the seas for 18 million years.  There are two species, both found in saltwater as well as freshwater habitats. Megalops cyprinoides (Indo-Pacific tarpon) populate the east African coast, southeast Asia, Japan, Tahiti, and Australia.  Megalops atlanticus (Atlantic tarpon, aka ‘Silver King’) is native to the Atlantic, and found along the western Atlantic coast from the US state of Virginia to Brazil, throughout the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, the Caribbean, and on the eastern Atlantic coast from Senegal to South Angola. Since the mid-1960s, there’s been a significant decline of Atlantic tarpon populations in the Gulf of Mexico, most dramatically at Port Aransas, Texas, likely the result of damming of rivers, toxic run-off, dredging of canals and shipping channels, and overfishing.

 

“He is a battle flotilla in full blazing armor, and peace and good will are not in him for an instant.”  — Henry Wellington Wack 

 

In 1885, the first tarpon was caught on a rod & reel in Florida.  After more than 130 years, tarpon is still considered one of the great saltwater game fish because of its size (tarpon reach a length of 4–8 feet and weigh 60–250+ pounds), extraordinary ability to jump high out of the water, and fast, powerful fight at the end of the line.  It’s tough to hook and land a tarpon—about one in eight hookups are successful catches, and a challenge to locate as they’re a warm-water migratory fish.

Florida is considered one of the world’s top destinations for tarpon fishing, with “hot spots” at Boca Grande in southwest Florida, Homosassa, and the Florida Keys.  High season is May through July, but records indicate all sizes are caught throughout the year.  Other places on the best tarpon fishing list:  Yucatan Peninsula (year round);  Costa Rica (Fall season);  Angola (Dec – Feb);  Gabon (late Oct – early Jan);  Guinea-Bissau (Feb – March)

  

WATCH the THRILL of the CATCH!   120 Days:  Tarpon Season, a short documentary video that captures a close-up view of the sport, featuring tarpon fishing guide, David Magnum, in his fervent search for the Silver King in the beautiful waters of Florida.

 

Information/Resources:

Tarpon, Texas Parks and Wildlife
Tarpon, Florida Parks and Wildlife Research Institute
Atlantic Tarpon, University of Southern Mississippi
Tarpon Research, Bonefish and Tarpon Trust
Megalops atlanticus-Gulf of Mexico, assessed “Vulnerable” by the International Union of Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources
The Silver Kings – Once so plentiful. Where did they go? by Stephen Harrigan, Texas Monthly (May, 2013) [Veteran fishing guides recall a time when Port Aransas, Texas was known as “The Tarpon Capital of the World”]

 

The Time Travelers video chronicles six men as they set out to break the speed record for a 277 mile course through the Grand CanyonReady for more water sport adventure?  Watch as 8 paddlers set out to break the rafting speed record through the Grand Canyon on the wild and dangerous Colorado River in The Time Travelers video

 

 

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Feature photo by Flickr user, Jack, CC BY-NC-ND

Filed Under: Experience, Video, Water Tagged With: Documentary, Environment, Ocean, Wildlife

Cookie Crunch

November 19, 2020 By Zola Zeester 2 Comments

Santa enjoys the holiday season with plenty of cookies

Traditions of cookie decorating can be traced back to the Middle Ages, and got a start in North America during the 17th century with the introduction of cookie cutters, molds and holiday decorating by Dutch and German settlers. About 200 years later, decorating cookies for Christmas gained popularity in America as more German-imported cookie cutters became available and cookbooks featured cookies cut in holiday inspired shapes sparked creativity in home kitchens. Today, the popularity of cookie decorating continues to grow during holidays throughout the world with all sorts of creations.

This holiday season, Zandy R (@pillbug) has been working on a cookie cookbook and experimenting with different iced cookie recipes and techniques (sugar cookie cut-outs decorated with royal icing).  You can do it, too.  Here are her cookie decorating tips:

it's fun to bake and decorate holiday cookies with these On2In2™ recipes and tips.

• Use your favorite sugar cookie and royal icing recipes, try something new or go nostalgic with a family recipe.  Find Zandy R’s (@pillbug) absolute favorite sugar cookie and royal icing recipes here → Roll & Cut Sugar Cookies.  If this is your first cookie decorating adventure, best to do a little research before starting. The Complete Photo Guide to Cookie Decorating by Autumn Carpenter

• It helps (a lot) to have the right equipment.  To decorate cookies with royal icing, you’ll need piping bags and/or squeeze bottles (a bunch, if using different colors) and a small offset spatula or rounded butter knife (to help spread the icing).  Also, toothpicks come in handy for tiny, precision work.

See Zandy’s favorite cookie baking tools below.  The stainless steel rolling pin eliminates the sticky dough problem by keeping the dough cool, the battery-powered sifter is genius, the 4-tier cooling rack is a great space saver during mega cookie baking projects, and the Kitchen Aid mixer—well, that’s really a dream machine.  For more information on any item, click/tap on the photo within the in the ad, and there’s a search box to help you find anything else your heart desires.


• Roll out cookie dough with a chilled rolling pin to avoid sticking.  Have fun cutting out a variety of cookie shapes     Holiday Cookie Cutters

• After cookies are baked and cooled, keep at least overnight (loosely covered with a sheet of parchment paper) before decorating.

• If using royal icing (as Zandy R did for her cookies), there are no quick short-cuts.  Let each application dry before applying the next one.  Check out Betty Crocker’s advice for decorating cookies with icing ⇒ here

• It’s a creative process of experimentation and experience, and that takes time and patience.  Don’t be afraid to try different techniques and colors because you’ll get better and better the more you decorate.

• When something goes wrong and you totally mess up a cookie, eat it immediately.

This page includes affiliate links to a shop website. If you purchase a product or service directly through the link, Zeester Media LLC may earn a small commission. This in no way affects the price you pay for the purchase.

 

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Cookie decorating for Thanksgiving holiday

 

Feature photo courtesy of Pixabay/Pexels CC0

Filed Under: Books, Cookery, FREEBIES, Gastronomy Tagged With: Baking, FREEBIES, Recipe

The Last Moonwalk

November 15, 2020 By Zola Zeester 1 Comment

Apollo 17 photo taken December 13, 1972 on the lunar surface

Project Apollo was a NASA spaceflight program dedicated to the goal of “landing a man on the Moon and returning him safely to the Earth” proposed by President John F. Kennedy on May 25, 1961 during an address to the joint session of Congress.  From 1969 to 1972, six Apollo missions made successful Moon landings, and twelve men walked on the Moon.

The final mission of the Apollo program, Apollo 17, launched on December 7, 1972 for a 12 day journey to the Moon and back.  It was the last time humans traveled beyond 1,240 miles (2,000km) from Earth, landed on the Moon, and walked its surface.  During a three day stay on the Moon, Apollo 17 astronauts, Eugene A. Cernan (mission commander), and Harrison H. Schmitt (lunar modular pilot) made three walks (totaling 22 hours, 2 minutes) while Ronald E. Evans (command module pilot) remained in lunar orbit in the command service module.

I’m on the surface; and, as I take man’s last step from the surface, back home for some time to come – but we believe not too long into the future – I’d like to just [say] what I believe history will record. That America’s challenge of today has forged man’s destiny of tomorrow. And, as we leave the Moon at Taurus-Littrow, we leave as we came and, God willing, as we shall return, with peace and hope for all mankind. ‘Godspeed the crew of Apollo 17’.  — Eugene A. Cernan, Apollo 17 mission commander 

 

A big, bright full moon over the Santa Monica Mountains from Malibu Road was a moon gazers delight

Man has been fascinated with the Moon for thousands of years, and moon gazing is an aesthetic custom with a spiritual component.

 

 

 

Since its launch 20 years ago and 2004 Saturn orbit insertion, the Cassini-Huygens spacecraft has provided images that have led to significant discoveries.The international Cassini mission has resulted in dramatic photos and new discoveries during an amazing 20-year exploratory journey to Saturn.

 

 

The short documentary “Overview” (from Planetary Collective) explores a cosmic worldview with reflections from “Earth gazing” astronauts and philosophers as well as beautiful space imagery. Watch it, and be inspired by the “unity and oneness of all life on Earth”.

 

 

The last moonwalk during the Apollo 17 NASA mission provokes reflection on vision, commitment and courage.The feature photo of Apollo 17 mission commander, Eugene A. Cernan, was taken by astronaut/lunar module pilot, Harrison H. Schmitt, on December 13, 1972 (NASA, Public Domain). Cernan is the last human to have walked on the Moon.

 

Information/References:

Apollo Space Suit in 3D – View every detail (close-up/inside & out) of the space suit that made walking on the moon possible (Smithsonian Digitized 3D) 
Spaceflight NASA: The Apollo 17 Mission
NASA’s Return to the Moon.  On November 29, 2018, NASA announced plans are underway to send humans back to the surface of the moon and on to Mars.

In the Shadow of the Moon (2007) is an award-winning documentary that will take you back to the years of the Apollo mission through archival footage and the surviving astronauts telling their personal stories about what it was like to fly to the moon and back.  Click/Tap the image to view via Amazon (If you purchase a product or service directly through the link, Zeester Media LLC may earn a small commission.  This in no way affects the price you pay for the purchase.)

 

 

 

On July 16, 1969, the huge, 363-feet tall Saturn V rocket launches on the Apollo 11 mission from Pad A, Launch Complex 39, Kennedy Space Center, at 9:32 a.m. EDT.
Apollo 11 Launch, July 16, 1969, NASA PD

Continuing through 2019, a new, state-of the art traveling exhibition, Destination Moon: The Apollo Mission, commemorates the first lunar landing in 1969 with tour stops in Houston (October 14, 2017–March 18, 2018), Saint Louis (April 14–September 3, 2018), Pittsburgh (September 29, 2018–February 18, 2019), and Seattle (March 16–Sept. 2, 2019) before returning to the National Air and Space Museum in Washington, DC for permanent display.  [Photo of Apollo 11 launch on July 16, 1969, from Pad A, Launch Complex 39, Kennedy Space Center, at 9:32am ED]

 

 

 

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Filed Under: Adventure, Enlighten, Insight, Video Tagged With: Documentary, Exploration, Space Travel, Technology

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