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Capitale de Noël

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Strasbourg is an historic, multi-cultural city located close to the eastern border of France with Germany in the Alsace region, and known for its architecture, medieval streets and the Grande Île (Grand Island) city center, Gothic churches, parks and museums, Alsatian food specialities, and the Christmas Markets.

The Christmas Markets have been a tradition in Strasbourg for four centuries, making it one of the oldest in Europe, and the city seems to magically transform into a dazzling wonderland during the month of December.  Everything—-streets, buildings, churches, shop windows and balconies are covered in lights and decorations, each uniquely beautiful.  Hundreds of stalls and shops throughout the city offer Christmas ornaments, arts and crafts, gift items, souvenirs, food and drink, and there is a wide variety of entertainment, including concerts and cultural events.  Absolutely no doubt — Strasbourg deserves the title Capitale de Noël (the Capital of Christmas).

 

 

A travelogue of our visit to the Christmas Markets in Strasbourg, France

After a two week stay in the French countryside, a friend suggested a quick trip to the Strasbourg Christmas Markets before the return home.  We explored for three nights/two and a half days, and discovered a charming city full of lights, history and special moments.

Getting There:  We took a high-speed SNCF train from Le Mans to Strasbourg.  The trip schedule was 2.5 hours as there were a few stops on the route, but the train was 30 minutes late leaving the Le Mans station. [Note: Train travel has advantages, but it’s not exactly easy for beginners and/or those with little or no French language skills.  Also, nation-wide transportation strikes can cause havoc.  See ‘Train Travel in France’ below for links to info and helpful tips.]   Upon arrival, it was dark and cold, and that made the walk in search of our hotel harder.  At the entrance to the city center, a security check required us to open each of our bags for a search.  So far, not really feeling the Christmas spirit.

Moon Before Yule:  We were so lucky to see the biggest and brightest Supermoon of 2017 while walking the streets of Strasbourg.  Gorgeous! 

Festive Reunion:  The Christmas Markets are best when shared with family and friends.  We joined cousin, Ursula, and her friend Bine for a very special ‘reunion’ breakfast at the BOMA Hotel (7, rue du 22 Novembre 67000) before they had to drive back to Remscheid, Germany.  The night before, we all enjoyed a late dinner at a brasserie near our hotels. There was a happy, friendly crowd, good food & service.  [Aedaen Place, 4 Rue Des Aveugles]

Church of St. Thomas:  We had been making our way through cold, wet streets crowded with people for hours when we ran across St. Thomas (11, rue Martin Luther) and decided to take a look inside.  It was so much more than we expected.

Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg:  Will forever remember the feeling when turning a corner and — wow! there it is.  This “gigantic and delicate marvel” (Victor Hugo) is the sixth tallest church in the world and the highest surviving structure built entirely in the Middle Ages.  The interior is nothing short of magnificent with the choir screen dated 1252, grand high alters (1500 and 1682), huge stained glass windows (mostly dated 14th century, some from 12th, 13th and 20th centuries), a suspended pipe organ, and one of the largest astronomical clocks in the world.  I lit a votive in memory of Opa Kneupper, and we all sat in awe for awhile in the pews.

Palais Rohan:  Next door to the Strasbourg Cathedral is the Rohan Palace (1732-1742), former residence of prince-bishops and cardinals of the French noble family Rohan.  Today, it’s considered a masterpiece of French Baroque architecture, and houses three museums: the Archaeological Museum (in the basement), the Museum of Decorative Arts (ground floor) and the Museum of Fine Arts (1st and 2nd floors). We visited all three, and liked the Museum of Decorative Arts best because of the opportunity to walk through the grand apartments and chambers of the palace.

Petite France:  With half-timbered houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, stone bridges and waterways, this is the most picturesque district of old Strasbourg, and the location of my favorite Christmas market.

Glühwein and Lebkuchen:  Really– It’s all about the food and drink!  If you’ve ever been to a German Christmas Market (Christkindlesmarkt), you’ll always remember the smells and tastes of glühwein (warm, spiced red wine) and lebkuchen (gingerbread-like cookies), and I was guessing there would be a good supply in Strasbourg because of its historic French-German culture.  I was right, but it took some hunting and a lot of tasting.  Along the way, discovered a wonderful Christmas tea, cookies and stollen (fruit bread).  My absolute best-ever/favorite stollen was discovered at Maison Alsacienne de Biscuiterie (9, rue des Serruriers – near St Thomas church).  A wonderful little bakery; also, loved the traditional Christmas cookies and macarons ‘toujours’.  At a small booth just a few steps away from Maison Alsacienne, we enjoyed a perfect serving of glühwein (located in front of Les deux gourmandes).  I was about to give up hope when I found really, really good lebkuchen from Mireille Oster at a booth in Petite France, and you must go to a Dammann shop (2 locations: 48, rue du Fossé des Tanneurs & 19, rue des Orfèvres) for the most delicious teas.

Snow:  Yes, there was that perfect moment on day 2 when we knew — it’s Christmas.

 

 

Christmas Markets Travel Tips (from lessons learned)

It’s best to stay in the city center, but hotel room reservations can be difficult, if not impossible, during the Christmas Markets.  Plan ahead and book well in advance.

Prepare for long walks in the cold, rain and snow.  Coat, hat, gloves and walking shoes–the works.  At the same time, pack as light as possible because the streets are bumpy (those cobblestones are killers!), and there are invariably steps to climb and descend as well as broken elevators and escalators in the train stations and airports.  You can get lucky (like I did) and a kind soul will help you with your bags, but don’t count on it.

It’s surprisingly easy to get lost (at least in our experience).  Wandering around can lead to interesting discoveries, but can also waste valuable time when you’re on a tight schedule.  Directions received from helpful locals are often unreliable and/or confusing because of language issues, hard to remember street names, and the many twists and turns of medieval streets.  Best to study-up on the city layout beforehand, and have a map (paper or digital) with you at all times.  [Tip: rue = street]

The crowds seem to pick up later in the day, and this causes a lot of crushing jam-ups in the narrow streets, small shops, cafés and bistros.  Go early to see and do more, but do not miss the late evening hours when the decorative lights are sparkling everywhere, creating a fairylike, romantic winter wonderland.

Look closely at ornaments and decorations sold in the booths.  We were disappointed at first because many seemed to be mass-produced imports, but there are some beautifully hand-crafted, unique, and locally made items available at the markets.  Take the time to search, and you’ll find something special.

Strasbourg is English-friendly, making communication much easier for English speaking tourists with no French language skills.  However, making an effort to learn some basics and use French greetings and phrases can smooth the way for a better experience.  Try practicing with Duolingo, free game-like French lessons (online or apps available).  It’s kinda fun.

The French have specific times and ways of eating during the day —  Follow the customs or go hungry. Breakfast (le petit déjeuner) is typically bread or croissants, butter and jam, and a cup of tea, coffee long or café au lait, or hot chocolate, but hotels and cafes may offer more variety.  Lunch (le déjeuner) is the main meal of the day, and the French like to take time to relax and enjoy a full menu, including a starter (une entrée), main course (le plat principal), and cheese course and/or dessert.  Most restaurants open for lunch at 11:30am and continue serving new customers until about 1pm (FYI – lunchtime hours are sometimes closer to 12-2pm), and many offer a special fixed lunchtime menu (le Menu du jour) or a special main course called “plat du jour”.  Evening dinner (le diner) is much the same with service at restaurants typically starting around 8pm, but dinner at a restaurant is considered by the French to be a special event with a bigger menu, including classic three/four (sometimes 5-6) courses courses requiring 2-3 hours savoring at the table.  Travelers looking for a brunch, ‘late’ lunch or early dinner will have problems finding a place that will serve them.  During the Christmas Markets, Strasbourg restaurants may not take dinner reservations or they’ll book up early, so plan ahead.  If you missed your chance to dine at a restaurant, keep walking to find a café, bistro or brasserie for good food and flexible hours.

Its always nice to have a few snacks and drinks in the hotel room, and we got everything we needed at the small grocery, U-Express, 5 Grand Rue.  Take along a big shopping bag to carry all the bottles of wine.

Feeling a little under-the-weather?  Look for the lighted green cross sign.  It’s the mark of a French pharmacy, and they’ve probably got a quick, easy solution for you.  Just walk in, point to your trouble spot, and explain the problem you’re having.

Information/Resources:

Christmas Markets in Strasbourg, an online visitor’s guide in French, German & English languages.  [2019 Christmas Markets:  November 22 – December 30]

Strasbourg Office of Tourism (information on all the things to see and do in Strasbourg)

Train Travel in France –  Guide to Traveling in France by Train; and French Your Way (tips on how to buy a ticket at the train station and locate the platform and your coach for boarding)  [Editor’s Note:  2019 –  A nation-wide strike will make train travel to Strasbourg difficult, if not impossible;  therefore, you must check ahead and have a plan B.  Find information on train travel during strike and suggested alternatives (car rental and bus) →  Here]

Security – Since a bomb threat in the year 2000, the Strasbourg Christmas Markets festival has been under reinforced security.  [Editor’s note: In 2017, there were security entry check points requiring a search of luggage and bags, and armed police and soldiers patrolled the streets.  Despite the vigilance, tragedy occurred on the evening of December 14, 2018, when a man attacked people on the city center streets near the markets with a gun and knife, killing 5 and injuring 11.  As a result, the markets were closed for a day and re-opened with additional security measures, including shorter hours, limited tram service and closed bridges.  Find visitor safety tips → here ]

Wikipedia:  Strasbourg Cathedral, St Thomas’ Church, Palais Rohan

Museum of Decorative Arts (museum website translated to English language)

Feature photo:  The Strasbourg Christmas Tree © 2017 Zeester Media LLC
The 2017 Christmas Tree is 30 meters high (more than 98 feet), weighs 7-9 tons, and comes from the Donon area of Lorraine, France.  It’s decorated with 7 kilometers (4.4 miles) of twinkling fairy lights, along with more than 300 flashing lights, 40 large baubles featuring gold stars and 180 illuminated angels, biscuits, candles, apples and stars to create a “Christmas of Yesteryear” theme.

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Mer de Glace

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A view of the Mer de Glace, Chamonix Valley, France at end of the 19th century
Late 19th century view of Mer de Glace, US Library of Congress, PD

Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) is categorized a “valley glacier”, a type of glacier that originates from mountain glaciers and flows down valleys, and located above the Chamonix valley within the Mont Blanc massif mountain range of the French Alps.  Formed by the confluence of the Leschaux and Génant glaciers, the Mer de Glace is the longest and largest glacier in France, and one the biggest tourist attractions in the Chamonix valley as it’s accessible by the historic Montenvers Railway (Chemin de fer du Montenvers) and offers spectacular mountain views as well as tours, exhibits, and restaurant/hotel. However, the powerful beauty and recreational benefits of Mer de Glace were not always appreciated.

During the classical and medieval periods of European history, ice was deemed mysterious, evil and dangerous, and glaciers aroused intense fear as they were thought to be inhabited by demons that swallowed up unwary victims as well as whole villages.  Consequently, glaciers were avoided, not explored, deepening myths and superstitions for many centuries.  In 1690, fearful villagers of Chamonix took action against glacial evil by retaining the services of a bishop to exorcise the glaciers.

Two Englishmen on expedition to Chamonix in 1741, William Windham (1717-1761) an English landowner and Richard Pococke (1704-1765) a high ranking clergyman and anthropologist, disregarded the forewarning of evil lurking in glaciers, and climbed up the mountain for 3¾ hours with the aid of local guides and porters to carry wine (essential drink for 18th century adventure travelers) and provisions.  It was a successful excursion as they returned safely and were able to provide the first written description of the glacier they called ‘Mer de Glace’.  The achievement also marks the beginning of change in attitude as the phenomena of the Sea of Ice later attracted writers, adventurers, artists and photographers.

 

Crossing the Mer de Glace on foot (1902-1904)
Mer de Glace Crossing, Zurich Central Library collection, 1902 – 1904, Public Domain

 

Two hundred and seventy-five years later, the explorers of Mer de Glace are on skis.  In the video Ice Call from PVS Company, pro skier, Sam Favret, takes you on a freestyle tour through the icy waves, trails, and tunnels of Mer de Glace.

 

Vallée Blanche

Mer de Glace is certainly skiable, and you don’t have to be a ski pro like Sam Favret or an expert to enjoy the unique backcountry experience via the iconic off-piste ski route, Vallée Blanche.  But, there are risks.  The surface of Mer de Glace is very rough with gradient drops, large hunks of ice, deep crevasses, and seracs, making it extremely dangerous without sufficient snowfall, good intermediate skills (in all types of terrains & snow conditions) and a local mountain guide.

The Vallée Blanche is accessible from Chamonix, France via a 20 minute ride on the Aiguille du Midi cable car to the mid-station Plan de l’Aiguille (2,317m), then a walk through a tunnel and down a precarious ridge to a small, level area— the starting point for the main Vallée Blanche runs.  There are four: the classic “voie normale” (the normal way), and the more challenging, Le Vrai Vallee Blanche, the Petit Envers du Plan and Grand Envers du Plan.

For the most part, the voie normale follows the valley floor through dynamic terrain, beginning with a descent into a bowl toward a large rock outcrop known as Le Gros Rognon (The Big Rock) and continuing along the mountainside.  The run can be nice and smooth in spots, but depending on weather conditions, there could be deep powder, crusty layers, and icy moguls to navigate.  About 2/3 down, the Refuge du Requin is a popular place to take a break, and 250 meters from there is the start of Mer de Glace.  If snow conditions are good, it’s possible to ski all the way down to Chamonix.  If not, the run ends at Montenvers, thus requiring a steep climb up iron stairs (misery!) to a gondola that connects to the Montenvers Railway.  At a leisurely pace, including lots of stops, sightseeing and long lift queues, the up/down round trip will take 4 – 6 hours, but don’t rush…..enjoy the ride and take in the views.

 

Mont Blanc and Chamonix valley illustration, including Valle Blanche

 

The Fateful Retreat of Mer de Glace

Valley glaciers like Mer de Glace are relentlessly moving, flowing, growing, shrinking and deforming as a result of weather (temperature and snowfall) and stresses caused by the massive weight.  As a result, they are appreciable indicators of climate change.

After a significant cold period in Europe during the late 19th century, Mer de Glace was so large that it reached as far as Chamonix in 1850.  Today, it’s hardly visible from Chamonix as the lower end of the glacier (the ‘snout’) has been shrinking during the last 30 years at a rate of about 4-5 meters (13-16 feet) a year.  There is concern the retreat will not stop as Mer de Glace is an important fresh water source for the region as well as a tourist destination, and Christian Vincent, a French glaciologist with the Laboratoire de Glaciologie et Geophysique (LGGE) and Institut de Recherche pour le Development (IRD), has warned it may shrink as much as 1.2 -1.4 kilometers (about ¾ of a mile) by the year 2040.

Resources/Information:
Wikipedia (Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc massif, Glacier, Richard Pococke, William Windham, Sr., French Alps, Chamonix, Chemin de fer du Montenvers, Aiguille du Midi, Little Ice Age)
The Annals of Mont Blanc – A Monograph by Charles Edward Mathews (1900)
Because It’s There – A Celebration of Mountaineering from 200 BC to Today (William Windham..from an Account of the Glaciers or Ice Alps in Savoy, in Two Letters) edited and translated by Alan S. Weber (2003)
Celebration of the Franco-English Friendship in Chamonix (1936), summitpost.org
Spiritual History of Ice: Romanticism, Science & Imagination by Eric G. Wilson
Chamonix visitor information:  findtransfers.com  (see also; chamonix.com, chamonix.net, ski-chamonix.net)
“Climate Change on Mont Blanc:  The Vanishing Mer de Glace” by Helena Fouquet (2015), bloomberg.com
Mont Blanc:  Glacier in Danger of Collapse, BBC News (September 25, 2019) – Italian authorities have closed roads and evacuated mountain huts after experts warned that part of a glacier on Mont Blanc could collapse.

Great runs, jumps & tricks on these ski videosThere are more bold backcountry runs, big jumps and tricks to see on the “Downhill Runs” video channel and explore at Skiing China

 

 

The terminus, or "toe" of Exit Glacier, as seen in 2011 from the Outwash Plain below it. Exit Glacier will likely never look like this again as warmer temperatures over the past few years have reduced the mass of the glacier.Filmakers traveled to Alaska to explore Exit Glacier, but along with stunningly beautiful mountain views and amazing blue ice, they saw melting.  FREE 2 WATCH → Glacier Exit 

 

 

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Feature photo is a still shot from the video “Ice Call” by PVS Company
Mer de Glace photo by Detroit Publishing Co. (1890-1900), US Library of Congress Prints & Photographs, Public Domain
Chamonix Valley Map sourced from chamonix.net
Crossing the Mer de Glace on foot, photo taken about 1902-1904, Zurich Central Library, Public Domain

Glowing Glühwein

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Glühwein (‘glowing wine’) is a popular mulled wine with a tradition in German speaking countries and the Alsace region of France, especially during the holidays when it is offered at Christmas markets.  One taste, and there’s no doubt about the reason for the popularity;  it’s a delicious, flavorful winter drink that instantly warms and comforts.  It’s also easy to make this speciality at home on your stovetop with an added bonus — your kitchen will be filled with beautiful holiday aromas.

There are a number of Glühwein variations, and many family favorite recipes differ slightly.  Some recipes call for anise star, vanilla bean, or a splash of brandy, and there is a non-alcoholic version (‘Kinderpunsch’).  But, the best Glühwein recipes have traditional basics in common — heated red wine, spices, sugar and citrus, so we recommend you start with the recipe below (Zola’s personal favorite), and if you’d like to tweak it, experiment with added or adjusted ingredients and different wines when making the next batch.  And, there will be a next batch because you, your family and friends will love this holiday magic in a mug.

 

Enjoy hot spiced mulled wine during the cold winter days and nights with this easy to follow recipe for traditional Glühwein

Glühwein Recipe

Ingredients:

1 bottle Red Wine.  Use any good quality (but not expensive) big, bold and full-bodied red wine (Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Zinfandel, or try a blended red wine). 

2 cups Water
4 – 5 Tablespoons Sugar (adjust to your liking)

1 Cinnamon Stick
3 – 6 Whole Cloves
2 – 4 Allspice Berries

1 Orange  (sliced)
1 Lemon (sliced) 

Directions:

  1. Put water, sugar, and spices into a large saucepan or casserole dish placed on a stovetop, and bring to a boil. Let simmer for about 15 – 20 minutes.
  2. Add the wine, orange and lemon slices. Heat through until the wine is steaming, but be careful to not boil and don’t let it simmer.
  3. Remove the cinnamon stick, cloves and allspice berries. Serve immediately in mugs, or store cooled Glühwein in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week, and reheat later to steaming in a saucepan (heat up slowly and do not boil).

Notes:  Makes approximately 5 servings.  Recipe can be doubled, or triple for a really big holiday party.

Feuerzangenbowl  (‘Fire Tongs Punch’) is a German celebratory wine punch often served during the Christmas holidays and New Year’s Eve, featuring a lighted, rum soaked sugar cone dripping into a hot bowl of Glühwein.  It is quite a show! Watch Chef Uwe Rudnick explain how it’s done in this demonstration video.         

 

        

 

There's no cocktail that matches the cool, crisp taste of the classic martini.It never goes out of style — How to make → The Perfect Martini  

 

 

 

 

 

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Feature Glühwein photo:  Hannah Permberton/Unsplash CC0

Polar Bear

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Cinematographer Dom West and photographer Joshua Holko along with director, Abraham Joffe and crew trekked over 120 miles per day in Svalbard (a Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean located about midway between continental Norway and the North Pole) to capture polar bears on film for the video documentary, Ghosts of the Arctic.  It’s awesome.

 

A polar bear's home is on the ice.Polar bears are marine mammals that have been around for a very long time, and for thousands of years, have been an important figure in the material, spiritual and cultural life of indigenous people throughout the Arctic region.  A ‘sister species’ to the brown bear, the polar bear (Ursus maritimus) evolved somewhere around 350,000 – 6 million years ago, and at some point, split off from the brown bear and moved North, during which time a series of evolutionary changes occurred allowing the polar bear to survive the harsh conditions of the Arctic.  The polar bear of today has black skin covering a layer of fat up to 4.49 inches (11.4 centimeters) thick, small ears, a short tail, and fur made of dense, insulating underfur with top guard hairs of varying lengths that prevent heat loss, and paws and claws perfect for roaming around the Arctic and swimming.

Home for a polar bear is on the ice in the Arctic region, including Alaska, Canada, Russia, Greenland and Norway (60-80% are in Canada), and it feeds almost exclusively on the fat of ice-dependent seals. As sea ice advances and retreats each season, polar bears may journey thousands of miles to find food, and they rely on the ice to travel, hunt seals, breed, and sometimes den.

Prior to the 1970’s, polar bear populations were in decline as a result of unsustainable hunting and trapping that began as far back as the 1600s, but a 1973 international agreement that strictly regulates commercial hunting helped the population numbers improve.  It’s estimated there are currently 22,000-31,000 polar bears in the world.  In the 21st century, however, polar bears face additional threats including pollution, oil & gas exploration/development, shipping, human-bear interactions, and climate change as Arctic sea ice is disappearing at an alarming rate.  If ice-free periods exceed a polar bear’s fasting ability of 220 days, it will be difficult, if not impossible, for polar bears to survive, especially in areas that lack an alternate food source.

In May 2006, the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) added the polar bear to its ‘Red List’ of the world’s most imperiled animals, predicting a 30% reduction in the polar bear population in the next 45 years.

BYU Polar Bear Research Video:  Working with Polar Bears International, Brigham Young University Professor of Wildlife Sciences, Tom Smith, and his students are engaged in a multiyear study to monitor maternal polar bear den sites in Alaska and to determine how climate change is impacting these animals.

Information/Resources:
Polar Bear International (Polar Bears 101, Human Interaction, Tracking Map & FAQ)
Defenders of Wildlife – Basic Facts About Polar Bears 
World Wide Fund For Nature – Polar Bear Status
International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources, Red List of Threatened Species -Polar Bears
Conservation of Polar Bears in Canada, Environment and Climate Change Canada
How a Production Team Broke Cameras and Braved -30° to Shoot Polar Bears in 4K, by Emily Buder, No Film School (August 2, 2017)

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Feature photo is a screen shot taken from the Untitled Film Works video, Ghosts of the Arctic
Photo of Arctic polar bear is courtesy of Pixabay/Pexels, CC0

Epic Skimo

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Ski Mountaineering (Skimo) involves climbing a mountain on skis or by carrying them and descending on skis using varied ski touring, Telemark, backcountry skiing and mountaineering techniques. A recreational as well as competitive sport, skimo requires a high level of physical ability and stamina along with technical know-how and skills.  Enthusiasts enjoy the adventure, variety of terrain, extreme challenges, and pushing limits.

In the mountains, you may find a ‘Netherworld’ … “where pain, grief, joy and exhilaration mix into moments of transcendent beauty”.*   

In 2018, ski mountaineers, Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison, completed the first ski descent of the 27,940-foot (8,516 m) Mount Lhotse, part of the Everest massif and the fourth-highest mountain in the world.  An incredible accomplishment when you consider the extreme challenge of just climbing to the summit of Lhotse (less than 400 climbers have summited Mount Lhotse and at least 20 have died trying), and there have been about a dozen failed attempts to ski down. Video documentary, Lhotse, tells the story of Hilaree and Jim’s extraordinary climb up and ski descent with personal and expert commentary and mind-blowing photography of this “mini-miracle” skimo adventure.    

 

 

In 2016, Aaron Rice set out to climb and ski 2.5 million vertical feet in the backcountry without using climbing assistance from motorized equipment (e.g., chair lifts, helicopters), challenging the world record of 2 million vertical feet set by Greg Hill in 2010.  It’s an epic endurance test as Aaron must chase after snow around the world and ski more than 330 days in order to accomplish his record breaking goal.  Watch this amazing journey in the short video 2.5 million, filmed, directed and edited by Tyler Wilkinson-Ray.

 

Video documentary Follow Through tells the story of skier Caroline Gleich’s motivation and determination to ski the 90 difficult and insanely dangerous ski mountaineering lines in the backcountry of Utah’s Wasatch Mountains first described by ski mountaineer Andrew McLean in his **1998 book “The Chuting Gallery: A Guide to Steep Skiing in the Wasatch Mountains”.

 

Information/Resources:

International Ski Mountaineering Federation – governing body for ski mountaineering competitions
United States Ski Mountaineering Association –  sanctions and governs competitive ski mountaineering racing in US, and promotes recreational ski mountaineering.  The USSMA website includes how-to information, resource links and videos.
*The Long Road To Lhotse by David Bunker, Tahoe Quarterly, Winter 2018-19  

 

If you ski, board or ride in the backcountry or live in snow covered mountainous terrain, avalanches are a destructive and deathly threat that must not be ignored.Avalanches are a powerful and deadly threat to ski mountaineers as well as anyone living or playing in snow-covered mountainous areas;  therefore, no one should venture out in the backcountry unless up to speed on avalanche safety and accident prevention measures.

 

 

Follow adventure skiers as they travel the world in this 3 season video series, A Skier's Journey.You should also watch Adventure Skiing (Free to Watch, On-Demand video documentaries)  Adventure skiers travel the world, discovering great beauty and dangers in the mountain landscapes of Europe, Asia, North and South America, and the Middle East.

 

 

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**Zeester Media LLC may receive a small commission for a book purchase you make via the link to Amazon within this page. This in no way affects the price you pay for the purchase.

Feature photo is courtesy of Robson Hatsukami Morgan/Unsplash, CC0

Retreat of Exit Glacier

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Located in Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska, Exit Glacier is one of 38 interconnected valley glaciers in the Harding Icefield, the largest ice field contained completely within the United States.  In the spring of 1968, the first documented mountaineering party succeeded in crossing the Harding Icefield, and Exit Glacier was given its name for serving as the exit off the ice field during the expedition.

Exit Glacier is one of Harding Icefield’s smaller glaciers, but is one of the most visited because of year-round, easy access by a roadway and hiking trails around and above the glacier.  When snow arrives in the area (usually mid-November) until early May each year, the access road is closed to cars but open to a wide range of winter sports and recreation, including snowmobiles, dogsleds, fat-tire bicycles, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

According to park research studies and recent enhanced monitoring and mapping, Exit Glacier has retreated about a mile in the past 100 years, and shrinking has escalated during the last few years with 187 feet (57 meters) lost from 2013-14 and another 136 feet (41.5 meters) in 2015.

Filmakers, Raphael Rogers, Kristin Gerhart and Paul Rennick, traveled to Alaska to explore Exit Glacier, but along with stunningly beautiful mountain views and amazing blue ice, they saw melting.  Local guide, Rick Brown, explained what they were seeing and what’s been happening at Exit Glacier in this short video documentary, Glacier Exit.

 

Understanding Valley Glaciers

In order to understand why glaciers are considered a visual indicator of climate change, it helps to understand some basics about glacier formation, movement and their sensitivity to fluctuations in temperature.

Exit Glacier is what is known as a valley glacier (aka alpine glacier) that forms when more snow falls on mountain peaks during a year than melts during the summer, creating a snow pack that builds up and thickens.  Over time, the weight of the snow causes the snow pack to compress and turn into ice, and the glacier grows as more and more snow and ice accumulate.  Then, the weight of the ice starts to slowly push down the mountain through the valley.  This downward movement of the glacier is hardly noticeable to the observer, but it’s a powerful force of nature that erodes the ground beneath it, stripping the valley floor and knocking loose rocks and debris.  Along the way down, the glacier becomes a mixture of rock, dirt and ice.

While snow falls in the cold, higher elevation temperatures at the top of the glacier (the ‘accumulation zone’) during valley glacier formation, the ice is continually melting in the warmer area at the bottom of the glacier (the ‘ablation zone’).  If the accumulation at the top pushes ice down the valley faster than the ice melts at the bottom, the glacier advances.  When ice at the bottom melts faster than ice accumulates and moves down from the top, the glacier recedes.

During a glacier recession, ice and rock continue to flow downhill to the toe of the glacier (the end of the glacier at any given point in time, aka ‘terminus’ or ‘snout’), and the rocks are then continuously deposited on the ground at the front edge of the glacier as the ice melts.  During periods of ‘stagnation’, the ice at the front of the glacier melts at essentially the same rate as the ice flows down, resulting in the toe of the glacier staying in one place.  Rock and debris, however, continue to be pushed downward to the front edge of the glacier where it is deposited as the ice melts away.

Information/Resources:

Exit Glacier – visitor information.  How to get up close to the glacier and explore the area.

The Retreat of Exit Glacier  by Susan Huse

Kenai Fjords National Park   (Where Mountains, Ice and Ocean Meet) – learn more, plan your visit, get involved

Physical Science in Kenai Fjords, by Virginia Valentine, Keith Echelmeyer, Susan Campbell, Sandra Zirnheld (Alaska Park Science: Volume 3 / Issue 1, 2004)

⇒ Exit Glacier conditions (May 28, 2018 update), an ice fall hazard zone was identified by Kenai Fjords park officials at the toe and sides of Exit Glacier.  The condition is dangerous due to tall blocks and slabs of ice, and entry into the ice fall hazard zone is prohibited;  however, the road to Exit Glacier and hiking trails remain open.

 

A view of the Mer de Glace, Chamonix Valley, France at end of the 19th century

Located above the Chamonix valley within the Mont Blanc massif mountain range of the French Alps, the valley glacier, Mer de Glace (‘Sea of Ice’), is the largest and longest glacier in France and a popular tourist attraction as it offers spectacular mountain views as well as tours, exhibits, off-piste ski runs, and restaurant/hotel.  Unfortunately, it has also been retreating during the last 30 years.

 

Artist Zaria Forman captures the massive, but fragile beauty of amazing ice and snow formations in her work, and reminds us how important glaciers are to every living being on Earth, now and in the future.

 

 

Feature image “Toe of Exit Glacier” is courtesy of the US National Park Service/Paige Calamari, PD. The 2011 photo of the toe of Exit Glacier was taken from the Outwash Plain below.  Since that time, warmer temperatures have reduced the glacier mass of Exit Glacier, and it will likely never look like this photo again.

 

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Avalanche

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“Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime.”  — Edward Whymper, Scrambles Amongst the Alps 

Avalanches are not rare or random events.  Most common during winter and spring, avalanches can occur any time of the year, and they are among the most threatening natural hazards to life and property in mountainous terrain.

Spontaneous avalanches result from either a weakening of a snowpack and gravity or an increased load on it due to precipitation.  Avalanches are also triggered by disturbances from skiers, snowmobilers, animals, and seismic activity.  A loud noise or shouting, however, is not a trigger as commonly believed unless the sound comes from an explosive device (frequently used to prevent avalanches in at-risk areas by triggering a small avalanche to remove instabilities in a snowpack).

If you ski, board or ride in the backcountry, live in or travel through snow covered mountainous terrain, the threat of avalanches must not be ignored as the dangers are very real.

This too real video by TahoeChappy captures the frightening experience of a backcountry skier as he triggers an avalanche, is buried and miraculously dug out in 4 minutes/28 seconds.  He got very lucky. Not everyone gets that kinda luck.

 

In North America, 42-45 people on average are killed by avalanches (more than 150 worldwide), and hundreds more are injured.  Most are snowmobilers, skiers, and snowboarders.  Sobering reminders that whether you’re a backcountry expert or newbie, don’t venture out without understanding and preparing for the dangers.  The good news — there are many resources available to help you learn how to reduce the risks.

 

Information/Resources:

Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center – non-profit organization based in Bozeman, Montana USA supporting avalanche awareness and education – find forecast, information and events
Colorado Avalanche Information Center  and Utah Avalanche Center – backcountry avalanche forecasts, observations, accident reports, and education
Avalanche Training recommended by American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE) for both recreational and professional backcountry adventurers
What You Can Do? – Avalanche Awareness Tutorial
The Power of Training – Avalanche Canada 
European Avalanche School
What To Do If You Get Caught in an Avalanche, by Kate Baggaley, Popular Science (May 16, 2017)

 

Watch skiers face the many physical and mental challenges of the mountains in order accomplish ski mountaineering world recordsEPIC SKIMO  –  Free-to-watch ski mountaineers take on extreme challenges of the mountain with a world record & personal goals in mind

 

 

 

Follow adventure skiers as they travel the world in this 3 season video series, A Skier's Journey.A Skier’s Journey A free-to-watch, on-demand video series that follows adventure skiers as they travel the world, discovering great beauty and dangers in the mountains.

 

 

 

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Feature photo is courtesy of Flickr user, Prasan, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Skiing China

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The short documentary, China: A Skier’s Journey, from Jordan Manley, is an exploration of the past, present and future of skiing within the diverse cultures and terrain of China. Stunning mountain vistas and some gutsy backcountry runs, too.

In the Altai mountains of northwestern China, prehistoric pictures carved in rock (petroglyphs) that show humans traveling over snow on skis are believed to be 10,000 years old, and the oldest written reference to skiing is from the writings of a Chinese scholar (The Hai New Jing) during the Western Han period of the Han Dynasty (206 BC – 9 AD) describing how the people of the Altai mountains “sped like goats in the valleys and on the flatlands wearing the ‘horns of goats’ – a kind of knee high fur boot under which is bound a wooden board with a hoof-shaped front tip.”

Ancient traditions of skiing are still evident today in the mountain region of northwest China, but seem likely to be lost to future generations, and the sport of skiing never gained popularity in China as in other parts of the world. That, however, is beginning to change as the country prepares for the Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics.

samische_skifahrer-pd
Skiing in Scandinavia by Knud Leem December 31, 1766 (PD)

Despite the early history in Asia, today’s modern skis actually evolved in Scandinavia, not China (in 2014, a 1,300 year old ski with leather bindings was found in Norway), and not until the mid-19th century did people start to enjoy skiing as a recreational sport, rather than strictly utilitarian purposes.

1849: First public ‘ski tour’ organized in Trondheim, Norway
1868: Winter train travel made mountain resorts commercially viable
1901: First skiing in the Pyrenees at La Llagonne, France
1910: First rope tow demonstrated at Truckee, California USA
1936: First chair lift introduced at Sun Valley, Idaho USA
1952: First large commercial snow-making machinery installed, Grossinger’s Catskill Resort Hotel, New York, USA

Info/Resources:
Wikipedia:  History of Skiing
“The Ancient Art of Skiing:  A Chinese or Norwegian Invention? (Ultimate History Project website)  

 

Follow adventure skiers as they travel the world in this 3 season video series, A Skier's Journey.WATCH more adventure skiing →  A Skier’s Journey is a free-to-watch, on-demand video documentary series that follows adventure skiers as they travel the world, discovering great beauty and dangers in the mountains.

 

 

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Feature photo is a still shot from the film “China: A Skier’s Journey“

Kīlauea

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“During a volcanic eruption, we are reminded that our planet is an ever-changing environment whose basic processes are beyond human control. As much as we have altered the face of the Earth to suit our needs, we can only stand in awe before the power of an eruption.” — US National Park Service

Hawaiian Ridge - Emperor seamount chain consisting of islands, undersea mountains and volcanoes extends across the Pacific Ocean.
Hawaiian-Emperor seamount chain, NOAA and ESRI® Data & Maps (Public Domain)

The “Hawaiian – Emperor seamount chain” is a vast undersea mountain range interspersed with islands, underwater mountains (seamounts), atolls (ring shaped coral reefs encircling a lagoon), shallows, banks, reefs and more than 80 volcanoes, that extending across the Pacific Ocean for 3,728 miles (60,000 kilometers) from the Hawaiian islands to Alaska and Siberia. The chain has been forming during the last 70 to 80+ million years by volcano eruptions and movement of the ocean floor (the “Pacific Plate”) over a volcanic region known as the “Hawaii hotspot”. Closest to this hotspot is the Hawaiian archipelago (aka Windward islands) that includes eight main islands: Hawaii (aka ‘the Big Island’, the Island of Hawaii & Hawaii Island to distinguish it from the US state of Hawaii), Maui, Oahu, Kauai, Molokai, Lanai, Niihau, and Kahoolawe, as well as a number of small islands, atolls, and seamounts, that extend 1,500 miles (2,400 kilometers) from the Kure Atoll to the Big Island, the southernmost point of the Hawaiian – Emperor seamount chain.

 

The Hawaiian Islands are an archipelago of eight major islands, several atolls, numerous smaller islets, and seamounts in the North Pacific Ocean.

 

The formation of the Big Island is the result of sequential and simultaneous eruptions of five ‘shield’ volcanoes (low profile, circular, slopping shield shaped volcanoes) over a period of about 300,000 – 600,000 years, and at 93 miles (150 km) across and a land area of 4,028 sq. miles (10,430 km²), it’s the largest of the Hawaiian islands and still growing because of the lava flow from currently active volcanoes, Mauna Loa and Kīlauea.

In accordance with beliefs and practices of the traditional Hawaiian religion, summits of the five Big Island volcanoes are revered by native Hawaiians as sacred mountains, and the powerful, passionate Fire Goddess, Pele, is believed to live within the Halema’uma’u crater located at the summit of Kīlauea. Pele’s domain, however, includes all volcanic activity on the Big Island, and she has the ability to cause lava to erupt from the ground at any time.  She’s been a very busy goddess during the last four decades.

 

Simplified map of Kilauea volcano, dated 2000, courtesy of USGS, Public Domain

 

Kilauea volcano is still active on the Island of Hawaii, and NASA-led scientists are studying the effects and hazards.
Kilauea at Night, NASA photo

The Kīlauea Volcano

The name ‘Kīlauea’ is translated to ‘spewing’ or ‘much spreading’, referring to frequent lava flows originating from the volcano. The name is well-deserved as there have been 61 separate eruptions from Kīlauea since 1823, making it one of the most active volcanoes on planet Earth.  Most of these eruptions have been relatively moderate and have occurred within one of its ‘rift zones’ with lava flows moving downslope.  [A rift zone is an area of ruptures on the surface that allows lava to erupt and flow from the flank of a volcano instead of its summit.]  However, fire goddess Pele does periodically create havoc with explosive and sometimes deadly eruptions that expel molten rock and gases across the landscape of the Big Island.     

Kīlauea’s most recent major eruption (dating back to January 3. 1983) is the longest period of volcanic activity in its documented history with lava flowing almost continuously for 35 years from the volcanic cone, Puʻu ʻŌʻō (‘high point on the skyline’) located within Kīlauea’s East Rift Zone.  [Volcanic cones like Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō  are formed by the ejected magma rocks piling up around a vent.]  The catastrophic collapse of Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō on April 30, 2018, resulted in the iconic eruption site and surrounding lava flow fields becoming without lava during the rest of 2018.  The absence of surface activity for such a long period of time makes it unlikely that lava activity will resume within Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō;  therefore, scientists have determined the eruption has concluded.  It’s important, however, to remember that Kīlauea remains an active volcano, and hazards have not changed as a new eruption can quickly cause dangerous conditions.   For Kīlauea status updates, check out the  Report from USGS – Hawaiian Volcano Observatory (daily updates and warnings).

 

Video:  Story of Kīlauea Volcano’s summit lava lake, and the eruptive history of Halema‘uma‘u.  Credit:  US Geological Survey

In the video documentary 100 Days: 2018 Kilauea Eruption, photojournalist Andrew Richard Hara chronicles his emotional observations of the 2018 Kīlauea eruption.

 

Also, see lava flow from Kīlauea up-close in HD.  Two short videos, Dawn of Fire and River of Fire, (filmed and produced by Tyler Hulett) capture flowing molten lava as it moves toward the Pacific Ocean from Puʻu ʻŌʻō during daylight and night.  It’s an incredible sight to see.

 

 

Visiting Kīlauea

“A spectacle, sublime and even appalling, presented itself before us. We stopped and trembled. Astonishment and awe for some moments rendered us mute, and, like statues, we stood fixed to the spot, with our eyes riveted on the abyss below.”  — William Ellis (1794 – 1872), describing his first sight of Kīlauea

The first western visitors to Kīlauea were two missionaries in 1823, William Ellis, an Englishman, and American, Asa Thurston, and after the building of hotels on its rim in the 1840’s, Kīlauea became a tourist attraction.  Today, it’s protected within the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park and visited by 2.6 million people annually. The park offers visitors dramatic volcanic landscapes of Kīlauea and Mauna Loa, archeological sites, historical places, and a look at rare flora, fauna and wildlife as well as hiking, biking, touring and camping.  Popular stops are the Kilauea Visitor Center and the Thomas A. Jaggar Museum & observation deck.

References/Information Sources:
Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park  Find Kīlauea vistor information, including eruption/emission/lava flow updates, hiking & safety tips, photos & video
USGS – Hawaiian Volcano Observatory, Kīlauea history, status reports, updates & information
Wikipedia:  Hawaiian Islands, Hawaii (Island), Kīlauea, List of volcanoes in the Hawaiian – Emperor seamount chain, Hawaiian religion, Pele

Scientific Study:  In January 2017, a NASA-led science team began exploring Kīlauea and Mauna Loa from the air, ground and space to better understand volcanic processes and find ways to mitigate the hazards.  

US National Parks:  There are more than 400 US national parks available to everyone, every day.  Most are free to enjoy, and the 117 that charge an entry fee (e.g., Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park) offer fee-free days throughout the year.
Find Your Park  ← Use the search tools on this website to find the perfect place to visit.   

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Feature photo credit:  Puʻu ʻŌʻō, courtesy of GE Ulrich, USGS (Public Domain). [Note: Puʻu ʻŌʻō is a volcanic cone that allows lava flow eruptions from the eastern flank of the Kīlauea summit. It has been erupting since January 3, 1983.]  
Image: Map of Hawaiian Islands, United States Geological Survey, Public Domain
Image: Simplified map of Kīlauea Volcano (2000) by J. Johnson, USGS, Public Domain
Photo:  Kīlauea at Night is courtesy of NASA

Cookie Crunch

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Traditions of cookie decorating can be traced back to the Middle Ages, and got a start in North America during the 17th century with the introduction of cookie cutters, molds and holiday decorating by Dutch and German settlers. About 200 years later, decorating cookies for Christmas gained popularity in America as more German-imported cookie cutters became available and cookbooks featured cookies cut in holiday inspired shapes sparked creativity in home kitchens. Today, the popularity of cookie decorating continues to grow during holidays throughout the world with all sorts of creations.

This holiday season, Zandy R (@pillbug) has been working on a cookie cookbook and experimenting with different iced cookie recipes and techniques (sugar cookie cut-outs decorated with royal icing).  You can do it, too.  Here are her cookie decorating tips:

it's fun to bake and decorate holiday cookies with these On2In2™ recipes and tips.

• Use your favorite sugar cookie and royal icing recipes, try something new or go nostalgic with a family recipe.  Find Zandy R’s (@pillbug) absolute favorite sugar cookie and royal icing recipes here → Roll & Cut Sugar Cookies.  If this is your first cookie decorating adventure, best to do a little research before starting. The Complete Photo Guide to Cookie Decorating by Autumn Carpenter

• It helps (a lot) to have the right equipment.  To decorate cookies with royal icing, you’ll need piping bags and/or squeeze bottles (a bunch, if using different colors) and a small offset spatula or rounded butter knife (to help spread the icing).  Also, toothpicks come in handy for tiny, precision work.

See Zandy’s favorite cookie baking tools below.  The stainless steel rolling pin eliminates the sticky dough problem by keeping the dough cool, the battery-powered sifter is genius, the 4-tier cooling rack is a great space saver during mega cookie baking projects, and the Kitchen Aid mixer—well, that’s really a dream machine.  For more information on any item, click/tap on the photo within the in the ad, and there’s a search box to help you find anything else your heart desires.


• Roll out cookie dough with a chilled rolling pin to avoid sticking.  Have fun cutting out a variety of cookie shapes     Holiday Cookie Cutters

• After cookies are baked and cooled, keep at least overnight (loosely covered with a sheet of parchment paper) before decorating.

• If using royal icing (as Zandy R did for her cookies), there are no quick short-cuts.  Let each application dry before applying the next one.  Check out Betty Crocker’s advice for decorating cookies with icing ⇒ here

• It’s a creative process of experimentation and experience, and that takes time and patience.  Don’t be afraid to try different techniques and colors because you’ll get better and better the more you decorate.

• When something goes wrong and you totally mess up a cookie, eat it immediately.

This page includes affiliate links to a shop website. If you purchase a product or service directly through the link, Zeester Media LLC may earn a small commission. This in no way affects the price you pay for the purchase.

 

 

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Feature photo courtesy of Gratisography CC0

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